The legacy of Chettinad jewellery lives on through Meenu Subbiah’s new collection

Luxury jewellery designer Meenu Subbiah unveils new signature creations under her flagship brand Vilasam by Meenu Subbiah Diamonds for the upcoming wedding season. This is part of the brand’s special Thirumana Thiruvizha. The collection brings together a wide range of authentic handcrafted Chettinad bridal jewellery, including bangles, oddiyanams, necklaces, earrings, brooches, and turban ornaments.

Why Chettinad jewellery was always designed to be worn

Every piece in this collection is crafted in 22-kt gold, set with Burmese rubies and Colombian emeralds, and defined by the traditional closed-setting technique, where the stones are not visible from behind. Peacock motifs are integral to Chettinad jewellery, and this bridal collection abounds with these dancing birds. The Thirumana Thiruvizha showcase also spotlights how flexible gold links have been incorporated for fluidity and comfort for brides. These designs are crafted to fall effortlessly on the body, rather than rest as rigid ornaments.

“Weddings in our tradition have always been a carefully layered experience. Every ceremony carries its own meaning, its own mood, its own adornment. As a bride moves through each moment, from the morning ceremonies to the evening celebrations, her jewellery should move along with her. Thirumana Thiruvizha was born from this understanding. It is a showcase designed to help a bride see, feel, and imagine how each piece lives on her, and how it can travel with her,” says Meenu.

She has reinterpreted traditional Chettinad jewellery without losing its essence. “We have not altered the design, but made it more wearable for the modern bride,” says Meenu, adding that the oddiyanam is a clear example. It has often been rigid and uncomfortable, but Meenu reimagined it as a foldable gold mesh belt that sits gently on the body, wrapping the sari and holding it in place while keeping the bride completely comfortable.

Speaking about the closed-setting technique, she says it is designed for durability and ease, allowing the jewellery to be worn often— even every day—without the need for constant upkeep. “The setting holds each stone securely, making the pieces resilient and enduring over time. At the same time, Chettinad jewellery is entirely handcrafted in 22-kt gold. Its natural softness and malleability allow for a level of intricacy that machines cannot replicate,” she adds.

She also busts the myth that Chettinad jewellery is heavy or overwhelming. “In reality, it is quite the opposite. If you look closely at Chettinad aesthetics, they are deeply rooted in practicality and ease. The jewellery was always designed to be worn, lived in, and enjoyed—not just displayed.”

A large part of this legacy lives through the Asaris (karigars), many of whom come from lineages that trace back to the Chola and Pandya periods. “Their approach to craftsmanship is similar to sculpting. While anyone can create a motif, what sets them apart is the detail. Even in something as simple as a flower, every petal is carved differently; every element has its own character. That level of finesse comes only through generational practice.”

The exhibit features 30 statement pieces. Prices start at Rs 4,00,000.

At T Nagar, Chennai.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

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