Phulkari embroidery: A timeless floral legacy of Punjab

Phulkari embroidery, a vibrant and intricate craft from Punjab, India, is a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Derived from the Punjabi words phul (flower) and kari (work), this art form is characterised by its floral motifs and bright, colourful designs. Traditionally, phulkari was not just an embroidery technique but a significant part of Punjabi life, symbolising blessings, love and prosperity.

Phulkari is typically done on a handspun cotton fabric known as khaddar. This base cloth, usually dyed in bright colours like red, orange, or yellow, serves as the canvas for the embroidery. Silk threads, often referred to as pat or floss silk, are used for the needlework. The quality of the thread plays a crucial role in ensuring the vibrancy and sheen of the finished design.

The embroidery is executed using the darning stitch, which is simple yet versatile. Phulkari designs are created entirely from the reverse side of the fabric, with the stitches showing the patterns on the front. This technique requires precision and skill to achieve uniformity in the motifs. The patterns, typically geometric or floral, are designed to cover the fabric partially or entirely, depending on the specific style. For instance, in Bagh (garden) phulkari, the embroidery covers the entire cloth, while in Chope or Thirma, the work is more sparse and symbolic.

The history of phulkari can be traced back to the 15th century, with references in Punjabi folklore and historical texts. It was initially a domestic art practiced by women to create wedding trousseaus, festive garments, and ceremonial pieces. Phulkari was deeply intertwined with life events, from births to marriages, and often symbolised a woman’s love, creativity, and status. Each motif and colour choice held specific meanings; for example, red signified love and fertility, while white represented purity.

Phulkari embroidery faced a decline during the colonial period due to industrialisation and the partition of India, which disrupted the cultural fabric of Punjab. However, recent years have seen a resurgence of this traditional art, thanks to the efforts of artisans, designers and cultural enthusiasts who are reviving its legacy.

Today, phulkari is not only cherished for its aesthetic appeal but also for its cultural significance. It adorns sarees, dupattas, kurtas and home décor, continuing to captivate admirers worldwide with its timeless charm.