Ralph Lauren’s bandhani skirt sparks global debate on cultural credit in fashion

The controversy surrounding Ralph Lauren’s bandhani skirt has triggered another debate over the use of traditional techniques by international fashion designers. The ‘Print Cotton Wrap Skirt’ by the American label has been recognized online to resemble bandhani. It is an ancient tie-dying technique that has originated in Gujarat and Rajasthan. According to social media, the main problem here is one of lack of recognition for the traditional art form.

Ralph Lauren’s bandhani skirt and the growing scrutiny of fashion

Ralph Lauren’s bandhani skirt controversy also signifies an evolving approach to how the audience responds to fashion designs. In just a short time after the launch of the design on social media, there were many comments about the bandhani technique being a very laborious art form with profound cultural significance.

It is a cotton dress with an appealing pattern, which has a classic wrap design with a tied waistband, a slanted cascading hemline, side pockets, and an internal button opening. The design of the dress follows the A-line silhouette and is crafted to knee-length, costing Rs 44,800. Even after such an elaborate explanation of its characteristics, the critics argue that the craftsmanship lacks recognition of its legacy.

The social media enthusiasts reacted swiftly by reminding everyone that Bandhani is more than a print; it is a complex process full of cultural significance. The case of the bandhani skirt designed by Ralph Lauren seems to be more about recognition than about being inspired by the culture. One user commented, “True Bandhani is hand-tied resist dye, every dot is hand knotted. What most global brands sell is just a printed interpretation, not the craft itself.” Another person said, “Ralph Lauren entire “Denim and Supply” label is full of Indian heritage textiles and techniques and no credit ever.”

The response to the Ralph Lauren’s bandhani skirt is indicative of the evolution of the landscape. Dialogues that used to be contained within the confines of the industry have come out into the open and become instant and public.

It is not the first time that this brand has come under fire for this type of criticism. There have already been conversations regarding the jhumka jewellery it used at the Paris Fashion Show. The bandhani skirt used by Ralph Lauren seems to follow this pattern.

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