Nostalgia in shades of gold at Ourém, Goa’s newest bar

Goa is not shy to bar openings. And, here’s another one; a nostalgic revival in one of the most culturally throbbing by-lanes in Panjim. Located in Sao Tome, in the pulsating heart of the beautiful Latin Quarters, Ourém is a spirit forward new cocktail bar. It takes its name from the nearby Ourém Creek, a tributary of the Mandovi, marked by marshy swamps and a haze of greenery bordering it. 

Step back in time to revisit the Goa of yesteryears and revel in a parallel, bygone world, almost detached from the real times. With its cool mint-green façade, the building comes replete with an ornate, wraparound balcony and an ivory-white bordering. The large, burnished gold signage with the name, Ourém, is a befitting nod to Ourém Creek named after ouro or gold in Portuguese, a precious trading commodity of that glorious, gilded age. The place is a beautiful addition to the heritage picturescape of Fontainhas.

The Space: Play of light and gold with old-world surprises

The vintage-inspired interiors immediately teleport one to an old Goan home, it has such a lived-in feel.

Ourém spans three distinct floors, each with its own character: the lower floor is a space for lively lunches and dinners, a floor above for vibrant cocktails, and then, there is an intimate level for quiet conversations, shrouded in secrecy behind a storage vault. Guests enter through a historic 150-year-old Portuguese door, and arrive at a space steeped in old world charm. Walking through the restaurant on the ground floor, one arrives at a community dining area and into the sanctum sanctorum of the home; a little garden housing an old well and an ancient sapodilla or chiku tree that still bears fruit in season.

The nostalgic lounge bar on the first floor has built-in balcaos and wicker lamps hanging from the ceiling… and, a secret speakeasy, tasting room you’d never guessed existed behind the beverage storage vault, connected through a hidden stairway. Burnt gold interiors, ornate mirrors and glittering chandeliers add a touch of yesterday whimsy.

There are surprising touches that complete the place. Like the skylight above the staircase, ushering in sunlight that slants off the ornate mirror on the landing, adding a cinematic gold glow to the place.

The Food: Revival of forgotten Goan recipes

“We’re going to bring back bacalhau for sure. People love it and it’s fast disappearing from menus everywhere. Bacalhau is emblematic of the Portuguese cuisine we grew up with, though it could be a very premium addition to the table,” says Chef Ines Soares Lobo, who has designed the menu at Ourém. She would know. A Goan girl and Dubai returnee, Chef Ines is at times the nurturing matriarch helming the kitchen and at times, a force to reckon with. Having spent decades in the UAE operating some of the best kitchens, she is also a faculty at IHM, Goa. The menu designed with Chef Ines is a nostalgic revival of some treasured Goan dishes. The ground floor serves lunch and dinner and one can expect a wicked prawn balchao with freshly ground spices or a crispy king fish with pickled mole or parra, served with hot, slightly nutty ukade rice that is such a staple of Goan cuisine. 

Upstairs, at the bar, there are Goan inspired appetisers like rissois, croquettes, small choriz paos, crumb fried prawns, crisp fish fingers, or little veg cutlets bursting with the flavours of the xacuti masala. There are vegetarian improvisations like paneer cafreal and caldine lovers can rejoice in a hearty prawn, fish or a veg caldine with okras, slow cooked to perfection. For those looking for a sweet taste from the past, there is the comfort of a good old Arroz Doce, a Portuguese rice pudding; creamy and lush, perfumed with cinnamon and a sprinkling of memories.

The Drinks: Agave, Feni and Indian spirit forward

Goa’s beverage stage is aflame with creativity. And, this is a revered temple for agave, feni and other local, Indian spirits. Each craft cocktail has been devised to uphold the uniqueness of a chosen ingredient, be it bhoot jhalokia, Kashmiri tea, Naga chilli or the michinga pepper bursting with umami notes, used in a bangda curry. Two cocktails stood out for me, from the menu. The mezcal, rhubarb cordial and Kashmiri green tea cocktail is a restrained but more-ish drink, with the homemade rhubarb cordial marrying well into the smooth vegetal notes of the mezcal. Another signature is the coconut feni and roasted, salty Goan red rice cocktail; a toasty, savoury libation, somehow reminiscent of petrichor or wet earth after the rains. Expect some unexpected surprises like butter, chilli garlic onion marmalade or the local fruit ambade or hog plum as cocktail ingredients.

The secret stairway behind the bottle storage vault leading up to a speakeasy tasting room is the pièce de résistance. This plush chamber is tastefully designed with custom made furniture and opens up to a private terrace. With a seating capacity of about 8 to 10, it will serve some of the country’s most premium beverages, truly making it a coveted and exclusive space, only for private reservations.

— Story by Gargi Guha