Narratives from the Nawabi corridors

Few of the most satisfying dishes from the royal kitchens of Awadh are vegetarian in soul. Surprised? The lanes of Lucknow (formerly Awadh) are laced with lip-smacking specials, nestling comfortably with the world-famous kebabs, curries, and biryanis. Chef Mukhtar Qureshi and Chef Rahul Akerkar bring in a superb symphony of gourmet gospels (rooted in non-vegetarian and vegetarian formats) that you can relish with ease, at the mint new Waarsa, from the house of Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality.

It’s a warm, cosy vibe that sets the tone at the restaurant — at NCPA, tipped by the Arabian Sea –—and done up by Abha Narain Lamba. Salmon walls, black and white photographs pulling a leaf out of moments spent on the streets in the city of Nawabs, and golden light arranges itself fluidly across the space.

Start with the Nalli Shorba, as the evening temperature in the city lowers gracefully to mark the beginning of the end of the year. The delicious whiff of the kid goat shank simmered in its own broth makes your heart sing delightedly. Lauki aur Channa Daal Shikhampuri arrives as a secret superstar. It’s a recipe Mukhtar shares that he has borrowed from his grandmother's culinary repository The tawa-seared bottle gourd and chickpea patty hits bullseye, even without the accompanying fresh, mint chutney.

Mukhtar’s secret spice concoction works its magic as each preparation unfurls in a fragrant calypso on your plate. Jaituni Dingri is another superb pick, bringing in fat mushrooms rubbed with green Kashmiri olives. For non-vegetarians, the hissing Tandoori Battak Kebabs are an absolute winner, served with apple murabba. Awadhi Sunehri Jhinga arrives in saffron splendour — tandoori tiger prawns marinated in kesar and Kashipuri yellow chilli. Rampuri Kacche gosht ki tikki, Kamal Jhad ke Shammi, and the fragrant Nalli Nihari fill your little heart with joy. “This is not outrageously rich food. The khansamas (royal chefs) used to eat simple food at their own homes and we have brought in the honest recipes without the heavy rollout of nuts, ghee and butter,” says Rahul.

The mains saunter through the story-telling as well. True to his Awadhi roots and his Qureshi lineage rooted in the royal courts of the Nawabs, Mukhtar plucks the best to serve up. Daal Q-man (Rahul monikered after Mukhtar!) comes steaming in a pot. “I have brought in the black masoor dal which is a staple in Uttar Pradesh, and teamed it with a special tadka using bathua leaves,” says Mukhtar. Decidedly delicious, with its swirling inclusions of gosht. Pair up with a sourdough naan to relish at leisure. Another superstar is the elaichi kela kofta in pumpkin gravy, and the ultimate for mutton lovers in Raan-e-Mukhtar paired with khamiri roti.

Choose from over 30 varieties of kebabs, 13 types of breads, and your choice of meats and vegetables: ranging from gucchi and nadru to duck, chicken and tendli — as you revel in lazy conversation in the light, flavour-forward dishes. An ode to the eateries clustered in Chowk, the old part of Lucknow, arrives the lip-smacking Purane Chowk Ki Galouti — a recipe conceived for the toothless Nawabs, as it melts in your mouth. Enjoy the Macchli Mussalam in almond and charoli nut gravy and you team up with the ulta tawa paratha, or the Awadi magaz naan. Angoori rabdi and shahi tukda wrap up the dining experience here on a perfect sweet note.

The restaurant measures up brilliantly in every respect, even the cocktails come together as amazing character artistes in the entire experience. Try the quirky Gin Gilori, spoofed on the famous paan quenelle. Almost 50 per cent of the menu is vegetarian, and Mukhtar has travelled through the heart of India to put together his culinary caddy, bringing in fragrant spices and chillies from Kanpur, Kashmir, Rajasthan.

Waarsa is truly a precious inheritance, redolent with the umda swaad from the city of Nawabs.

Meal for two: INR 2500 (minus drinks).

Waarsa, Gate No. 2, NCPA, Nariman Point Mumbai.

— Story by Shilpi Madan