Rooted in culture: India’s traditional cheeses

Exploring India’s indigenous cheeses and their unique regional expressions

While India may not be the first country that springs to mind when one thinks of cheese, its culinary landscape is home to a remarkable variety of traditional dairy delicacies. Rooted in centuries of local practice and adapted to regional climates, India’s indigenous cheeses are a quiet but proud testament to the country's artisanal heritage.

The most widely known Indian cheese is paneer—a fresh, non-melting cheese made by curdling milk with lemon juice or vinegar. Beloved across North India, it features in dishes ranging from the comforting palak paneer to the festive shahi paneer. Unlike European cheeses, paneer is typically consumed fresh and has a short shelf life, making it a daily staple in many households.

Venture further east and you’ll find chhena, a close cousin of paneer, prevalent in Bengal and Odisha. While similar in preparation, chhena is softer and more pliable, used both in savoury dishes and to craft iconic sweets like rasgulla and sandesh. Its texture and moisture content make it ideal for absorbing flavours and forming into delicate confections.

In the Himalayan belt, particularly in Sikkim and Arunachal Pradesh, the tradition of making chhurpi is still alive. This hard, smoked cheese made from yak or cow’s milk is revered for its durability and rich, earthy flavour. Chhurpi can be found in two forms: a soft variant eaten with rice, and a rock-hard version often chewed like a toffee, especially during long mountain treks.

The state of Kashmir, too, offers its own gem—kalari, a traditional ripened cheese made from raw cow’s milk. Known as the “mozzarella of Kashmir”, kalari is typically pan-fried until golden and served with local bread, offering a crispy outside and molten centre that is utterly moreish.

Though industrialisation and modern dairy practices have overshadowed many of these traditions, there is a growing movement to revive and preserve them. From boutique dairies to regional food festivals, India’s cheeses are slowly gaining the recognition they deserve—not just as ingredients, but as cultural artefacts.

In every curdled drop lies a story of climate, community, and care—a taste of India’s layered culinary identity, patiently aged over time.