What to eat at this new beachside restaurant in Chennai

Between a memorial built for a man who died saving a stranger and a ferris wheel that exists only to thrill, life plays out in its most honest form on the Besant Nagar beach. Children tumble and get up laughing, teenagers split a single tornado potato fry, bubbles drift across the sand, birds cut through the sky, and the sea keeps its steady rhythm. Somewhere between death, celebration and the everyday chaos of living, food becomes the one constant that grounds us. Little Soi, newly opened right on the beach, gives you exactly this little sliver of life.

A new beachside address for Southeast Asian flavours

The outside dining area is prime people-watching territory, with views of the Karl Schmidt Memorial on one side, the carnival ferris wheel on the other, and the colourful churn of the beach unfolding in between. Inside, the space is warm and inviting, dominated by red and black tones softened by golden lighting. One wall features a striking mural of two elderly people eating sushi, a gentle reminder that good food is a lifelong pleasure. We took the hint and began our meal with sushi.

We started with the crispy salmon maki. It was familiar and dependable, delivering exactly what it promised. The real surprise was the crispy veg roll jalapeno tartare, a crunchy vegetarian roll topped with a punchy jalapeno tartare and finished with a drizzle of sriracha aioli. It had a satisfying crunch that made it really hard to stop at just one piece.

We kept the momentum going with the Thai three pepper chicken bao. Soft, pillowy baos held a generous filling of chicken seasoned with Sichuan pepper, along with red and green peppers, creating a subtle numbing aroma that lingers pleasantly on the palate. Pickled cucumber and Asian slaw add balance, making it filling without being heavy, and deeply comforting in that way only a well-made bao can be.

The Veg dan dan noodles, meanwhile, lean into richness. The savoury sesame paste is built from a combination of peanuts and Sichuan peppercorn oil, resulting in a creamy, nutty base with a crave-worthy depth that coats every strand without overwhelming it.

Banh mi bites arrived as neat little Vietnamese baguette sandwiches, crisp on the outside and soft within, layered with pickled vegetables, fresh herbs and grilled chicken. The chicken is marinated in a potent blend of fish sauce and other hand-picked ingredients before cooking, infusing each bite with umami depth. Crunch, tang and sweetness work in harmony, making them ideal to share, though you might not want to.

The Rendang chicken toasties were indulgent and unapologetically heavy. Thick slices of bread, clearly dunked rather than lightly buttered, were toasted to a deep crisp before being topped with rich, spicy rendang and mayo. Dried serrano chillies scattered on top add a sharp, fiery edge, while coriander cuts through the richness just enough. The buttery spice hit hard, though the chicken leaned a touch overcooked, making the dish feel more about indulgence than finesse.

We also sampled the Hainan roast chicken rice bowl. The chicken is marinated in a harmonious blend of soy sauce, sesame oil and spices, resulting in meat that is tender and aromatic. It is served with three accompanying sauces that allow you to tweak each bite to your liking, adding layers of savoury depth to a deceptively simple dish.

Dessert closed the meal on a high. The Vietnamese coffee cheesecake was rich and creamy, with a light, mousse-like texture that keeps it from feeling too dense. This airy quality comes from the use of gelling agents, frothy albumen nuances and generous Chantilly cream. The coffee notes are bold but balanced, offering sweetness without cloying, and providing a calm, satisfying end to a meal that travels confidently across Southeast Asia.

Meal for two: Rs 1,800. From: 12 pm to 11 pm. At Little Soi, Besant Nagar.

Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya

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