What is Pootharekulu? Andhra Pradesh's GI-tagged sweet with a royal legacy

Pootharekulu is considered to be one of the most famous traditional sweets of Andhra Pradesh. It is also known as ‘Paper Sweet’ as it is prepared using sheets of rice starch, which look like thin paper. Other ingredients used in the preparation of this sweet include jaggery or sugar, ghee, and dry fruits. Pootharekulu also earned a GI tag due its unique texture and preparation process.

Pootharekulu: The story behind Andhra Pradesh's famous paper sweet

According to reports, the origin of the sweet dates back to the time of the Telugu kingdoms when it was used as part of celebrations and significant events. Historians have also linked the history of Pootharekulu to the kitchens of the Vijayanagara Empire, which existed in the 14th century. At that time, confectioners perfected the method of producing thin sheets that constitute the special appearance of the sweet. There are also references to such desserts in ancient Telugu literature.

The dessert is named ‘paper sweet’ after its paper-like feel. It has layers that are made by spreading a smooth batter of rice on a heated surface. After the batter has been baked, it is then peeled off and filled with jaggery or powdered sugar, ghee, and dry fruits. Then it is then rolled into a cylinder shape. This process takes much patience and precision to master.

While the classic recipe continues to be very popular, there have been changes in terms of filling and flavouring by modern sweet-makers. Besides the traditional blend of jaggery, ghee, and dry fruits, some varieties use Oreo, Horlicks, and others as flavours. This has certainly made it possible to lure more young customers without compromising the classical way of making sweets.

Pootharekulu is strongly linked to festivities, marriages, and religious functions in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. It is also used as prasadam in various temples and is seen as an auspicious sweet in certain situations.

However, the fame of Pootharekulu has even transcended the borders of Andhra Pradesh. Pootharekulu prepared with dry fruits and nuts are famous from Hyderabad, while the people of Bengaluru have come up with modern versions of the traditional delicacy. Similar variations have been seen in the neighbouring states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu as well.

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