A slow simmer across Southeast Asia’s culinary landscapes

A festival that maps culinary exchange across the region

Southeast Asian food rarely rushes. Broths simmer for hours, spices bloom slowly in hot oil, and noodles are assembled with a careful choreography of toppings. At Suey and Beyond: 12 Simmering Stories, the new food festival at Soy Soi, the menu moves through coconut curries, clear broths, and noodle bowls inspired by the lively street lanes of the region, where a single pot might simmer all day while diners gather around steaming bowls.

We begin with Ayam kalio, a local staple of West Sumatra in Indonesia. The chicken here is marinated in kaffir lime for a few hours before being cooked gently in coconut milk with pounded lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. Lemongrass lifts the curry, chillies add warmth, and the coconut base holds everything together. Pickled bamboo shoots bring acidity, while onion fryums add a playful crunch.

Then comes Khanom chin nam nigaw, a Northern Thai noodle dish. The broth simmers for seven to eight hours with pork bones and fat, building a deep savoury richness. Tomatoes and tamarind brighten the base, while minced garlic is flash-fried with chilli flakes for the final plating. The rice noodles, delicate and vermicelli-like, are blanched and dropped into the bowl at the last moment. The result feels alive. Sour, savoury, smoky, and comforting all at once.

Seafood appears in dramatic fashion with Kaeng kari poo nim, a Thai street-style soft-shell crab curry. Here the curry base layers, shrimp paste, galangal, lemongrass, and kaffir lime leaves before basil and stock deepen the flavour. Tomatoes and onions soften the sauce. The fried crabs arrive perched on top like a small lotus flower, crisp against the bright red curry below.

The vegetarian Kapalo jackfruit samba draws from ceremonial Minangkabau cooking traditions. Historically served during important family gatherings, the dish is often described as “food for the head,” meaning it is meant for significant occasions. Here young jackfruit replaces meat in a rendang-style curry, absorbing the spice paste until the flavours settle deep into its fibres. Turmeric-forward tofu satay and spinach crisps bring contrast in both colour and texture.

Returning to the festival’s central theme at last, we try the Khao suey Luang Prabang. This version reflects the cuisine of Laos, particularly the valley town of Luang Prabang. Unlike the creamy Burmese style, this bowl swaps coconut milk for a clear stock. Geography quietly explains the shift. Inland Laos historically relied more on broths than coconut. Thick noodles sit in the light savoury broth, topped with mock meat, sprouts, and chilli crisps. The flavours feel cleaner and lighter but no less satisfying.

Meal for two: Rs 1,800. On till March 22. From 12 pm to 11 pm. At Soy Soi, Kotturpuram.

Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya

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