They say a chef’s personality is always reflected in the food they create. When we caught up with Michelin star chef Andrew Yeo at an exclusive Four Hands Dinner at Yauatcha last week, our belief in the saying was only reassured. Corporate Executive Chef Cantonese Brands at Tao Group Hospitality, Chef Andrew is known for his mastery of Cantonese cuisine and his ever-evolving culinary style. As the petite man made his way out of the kitchen into the bar counter of the restaurant and asked this writer, “Is this fine or would you want to sit somewhere quieter for a better recording?,” we got a glimpse of how much he cares even for the littlest of things.
Throughout the hour-long conversation we had next, not for once did he seem unsure about his answers. His responses for the rapid-fire section were, to quote Karan Johar, rapid and full of fire! Thoughtful yet witty, the chef tells us why he chose the profession, why Chinese and Indian cuisines can complement each other and shares one secret tip to bring the taste of restaurants in homemade Chinese! Excerpts:
Is this your first time in this city?
Yes, in fact, this is my first time in India. I arrived in Mumbai and visited Kolkata; now my last destination is Bengaluru.
Is there any food you have tried in Bengaluru and loved?
There are so many! I have been trying different kinds of dosas for breakfast, across cities. But I have been told that the South is the best place to get dosas and now, I am sure of that too!
How did you curate the menu for the Four Hands dinner?
I wanted to curate some unique dishes. So, I created a dim sum with some local ingredients. I have also tried to highlight vegan dishes throughout the menu. For example, as you might know, XO sauce is a high-value item in Chinese cuisine; it uses dry scallops and dry shrimp, which makes it very costly. But for this dinner, we have made the XO sauce using only ingredients that are vegan!
Let us move back in time a bit. Did you always want to be a chef?
Yes! There are kids who are good and there are kids who are rebellious — I was definitely the latter in my childhood. I was the most naughty one and always cried for what I wanted. In childhood, whenever I would smell good food, I would run to the kitchen and try to figure out what was being cooked. I would take the ladle and start stirring, and my mom would always shout, “Get out of the kitchen, get out of the kitchen!” That is why I decided to always be in the kitchen. Is that a good answer? (laughs)
Absolutely, and what is your food philosophy?
As a chef, I like to use simple items and let the ingredients play. My philosophy is when you get a good ingredient, do not carve away many things from it — do not overpower it with sauces or any other ingredient. I believe in preserving the core and presenting it in a modern way. And I always believe in the chef — a chef with passion will always create something good.
What similarities and differences have you noticed between the food cultures of China and India?
I recently collaborated with an Indian chef to make a tasting menu and everyone who tasted it was wowed. We made Peking duck and finished with paani puri — so, we had something oily and then something refreshing to clear your palate. I realised that in both these cuisines if we do not put too much spice, they will complement each other. I think that’s also the reason why Chinese restaurants do so well in India — because diners here recognise the palate profile. The Chinese use szechuan spice and Indians use more hot spice — but the essence is similar. And in terms of difference — Indians have more spices than the Chinese (breaks into laughter) — way more!
Many of our readers love to cook Chinese at home. Can you share one secret technique with them that can help them make home-cooked Chinese taste restaurant-made?
Do not over-portion each time you cook something. Use a smaller oven and do your stir fries in a smaller portions. If you follow this, the outcome will be closer to what you get in a restaurant. Most people think, “I have six people to cook for, so I am going to make all the food in one go.” No, you’re not going to make it. That’s my advice — have more patience when you are cooking Chinese at home.
Email: prattusa@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @MallikPrattusa