The evolution of banh te: A modern take on tradition

The taste of banh te—a steamed rice cake filled with mushrooms and minced pork—embodies the essence of northern Vietnamese cuisine. Its simple ingredients, expertly prepared, are often complemented by a pungent fish sauce dip.

At Chapter Dining in Hanoi, Chef Quang Dung elevates this classic dish with a refined approach. His version of banh te features a richer rice cake infused with pork stock, topped with raw scallop, pickled daikon, and coriander in multiple forms. A drizzle of fried shallot oil adds sweetness, while a delicate floral essence from a giant water bug, commonly used in northern Vietnamese cooking, enhances the flavour. The final touch—a splash of nuoc mam (fish sauce)—brings all the elements together in a savoury broth, highlighting the depth and complexity of Vietnamese cuisine.

“Fish sauce is one of the foundations of flavour,” says Dung. “It transforms a dish with its unique umami and savoury notes.”

Fish sauce, made from anchovies fermented in salt, is a staple in Vietnamese cooking. Its flavour profile varies based on factors like fermentation time and the salt-to-fish ratio. It is commonly used in dipping sauces, marinades, salad dressings, and braised dishes like bun cha and thit kho.

Despite its deep-rooted history, fish sauce is finding its way into unexpected culinary applications. In Hanoi, mixologists incorporate it into cocktails for an umami twist, while chefs like Dung experiment with it in French hollandaise sauce and even ice cream.

“It’s extremely versatile,” Dung says. “A lot of fun to use and explore.”

Dung’s journey into the culinary world began in his childhood. With his banker parents working long hours, his mother taught him to cook at the age of ten. By the time he was a teenager, he was braising pork and making spicy fried rice.

However, it wasn’t until he moved to the UK to complete his studies that he realised cooking wasn’t a universal skill. While studying finance in Devon, he worked in restaurants, immersing himself in cookbooks and saving up to dine at acclaimed establishments.

“When you’re 18, you absorb everything,” he recalls.

Returning to Vietnam in 2013, he initially took a banking job but pursued his passion for cooking at night, working as a junior chef at a five-star hotel. In 2015, he left finance entirely and launched a gastropub in Hanoi. The venture didn’t go as planned, but his setbacks became learning experiences. In 2021, he opened Chapter Dining in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, a fine dining restaurant that celebrates local, seasonal ingredients and Vietnam’s rich culinary heritage.

The restaurant’s sleek steel-slat facade leads into an open kitchen, where Dung and his team craft an intricate 14-course tasting menu. Chapter Dining earned a place in the Michelin Guide Hanoi in 2023 and 2024, a testament to its innovative approach to Vietnamese cuisine.

“I can finally call it... my restaurant, my food, my philosophy,” he says.

Central to Dung’s philosophy is sustainability. His menus shift with the seasons—warm, comforting dishes in winter and lighter, fresher options in summer. Given Vietnam’s climate vulnerabilities, sourcing ingredients can be unpredictable. To adapt, he lets nature dictate the menu, ensuring that every dish remains true to its origins.

Fish sauce is ever-present in his creations, not just as a seasoning but as a fundamental flavour enhancer.

“Fish sauce isn’t just about saltiness—it adds depth, umami, and magic,” he explains.

For those unfamiliar with cooking with fish sauce, Dung suggests starting with something simple: a fish sauce omelette. Three eggs, two teaspoons of fish sauce, and finely chopped spring onions, whisked together and fried in pork fat.

“And just like that, you have a delicious fish sauce omelette. It pairs beautifully with rice,” he says.