Lupa, chef Manu Chandra’s newest venture, takes one on a culinary trail through Europe

Here's a look at what to expect...

Of late, there seems to be a growing call for returning a certain section of MG Road to its former glory. And who better to take on that challenge than the celebrated chef Manu Chandra. The buzz around Lupa, the chef’s new restaurant, had been in the air since late last year, and taking into consideration the singular success of his previous restaurants and his accomplishments, expectations were high. Located a few yards away from the MG Road metro station, the restaurant gets its name from the mythological La Lupa (Italian for she-wolf), who, legend has it, nursed twins Remus and Romulus, the founder of Rome. 

Villa living
The property, formerly a supermarket, is a sprawling space spread across 11,000 square feet and is designed to resemble an Italian villa. In addition to infusing new life into the area, it also marks a return to a love for maximalist decor that is a mix of classic luxury and vintage glamour, right from the two-layered outdoor deck defined by a hand-carved water fountain, to the two grand staircases leading to a private dining area on a mezzanine floor. While their two signature open pantries — a mini ‘Gelato Lab’ and a ‘Salumeria-cum-Small-Plates Bar’ are sure to grab your attention, another highlight is the wine cellar, located 12 feet under the ground, housing close to 2,000 bottles of wine and designated tasting zones. 

The bar
The bar

The bar, which boasts a pure brass countertop in addition to a vintage mirror facade and soft lighting, serves up some interesting craft cocktails, bucking trends and sticking to classic methods driven by shrubs and infusions. The Notorious F.I.G (house-made fig preserves infused bourbon, campari, fresh lime, orange bitters, thyme, cinnamon) is a great choice, especially if you’d like something that’s not too sweet. We also loved the fruity freshness of Melon, Cheese and Ham (gin, dry vermouth, house-made melon cordial, angostura bitters, saline solution, fromage, ham crisp). 

The Notorious F.I.G
The Notorious F.I.G

Across the board
The food menu focuses on European culinary traditions, all with Manu’s signature twist. The renewed love for charcuterie and cheese boards, makes the delicious Salumi Platter, featuring parma ham, mortadella, Spanish chorizo with gnocchi frito, tigelle buns (a popular bread from Italy) and pickled gherkins, among others, a great way to start.

You also can’t go wrong with the creamy Lupino salad, a take on Caesar salad, with shredded romaine lettuce, creamy egg dressing, parma ham floss and garlic sourdough rosette. 

Salumi Platter
Salumi Platter

Flexing mussels
Chicken Liver Parfait is elevated to new heights of fine dining as it is served gently enveloped in a hibiscus and raspberry gel and topped off with artfully sprinkled smoked sea salt, chicken skin karaage and mustard cress, with a side of miniature toasted bread slices. From the Hot Plates section, our pick is the Moules Frites. The stunningly bright and vibrant hue of the steamed green lip mussels — flavoured with white shallots, leeks, garlic and chilli flakes and served with fries and prawn mayonnaise —  was one of the best parts of our meal. Some of our other favourites include the Pappardelle Oxtail Ragu (slow-braised oxtail ragu, pasta, pecorino, gremolata, grated cured egg yolk), Lamb Za’atar (Greek lamb meat-balls, marinated feta, pickled shallots, olives, confit garlic, toasted pine nuts) and Pork Belly (twice-cooked pork belly, smashed potatoes, herbed vegetables, green apple and celery slaw, smoked miso, chilli and caramelised pork jus).

Moules Frites
Moules Frites

When it comes to dessert, the gelato lab with its stracciatella-style creations, is not to be missed. We sampled the Strawberry and Balsamic Vinegar with Shortcrust Strawberry Crumbs and were blown away by the freshness and distinct flavours. The classic Tiramisu we tucked into was also a hit at our table. 

Forging a completely new path, not just in terms of décor but also when it comes to the menu, rather than reinventing popular trends, is a risk. But chef Manu Chandra proves that when you do it right, it’s a risk that is sure to pay off. 

Rs.2,000++ upwards for two. At MG Road

Email: rashmirajagopal@newindianexpress.com; Twitter: @rushmeee

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