This pop-up on Bhatkali food reminded us why the cuisine is always sought after within gourmand circles…

We’ve always heard of Bhatkali cuisine — one of the finest cuisines from coastal Karnataka — that marries Konkan and Arab flavours to perfection. But the only experience we ever had at tasting its delicious fare was at the erstwhile Ali Baba on MM Road, Frazer Town, that has not opened shop since it closed during the COVID-19 lockdowns. It was therefore just the best news when we heard that Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru Outer Ring Road was presenting a six-day Bhatkali culinary extravaganza at their all-day dining restaurant, Momo Café and we could make it to the do.

Led by the talented renowned chef Fatima Riyaz, in collaboration with the executive chef Vijay Bhandari, they crafted a menu that highlighted the signature dishes of the cuisine, with a particular focus on seafood delicacies. Now, chef Fatima Riyaz, is a passionate home cook inspired by her family’s traditional culinary methods and among the culinary delights that she had decided to present were signatures like Shayya Biryani, Mudkale, Haldi Pana Nevri, Dee Fanas Fry (Breadfruit), Masala Oodey and a selection of desserts. Each dish was aimed to reflect the rich tapestry of flavours and traditions that make Bhatkali cuisine so wonderfully unique.

We began our meal that evening with Appa Gudiyo, a chicken stuffed crêpe that reminded us of a chicken paratha, but so much more interesting. Soft, tender and chewy, the paratha was only elevated by the perfectly cooked chicken that screamed South Indian flavours. Next up, we went with the Mawre Fry (Seer Fish) and the Mutton Sukke — two familiar dishes for any South Indian worth their salt with their Bhatkali twists. This was all about wonderfully cooked meat and vibrant masalas that were bursting with flavour but absolutely gentle on our palate — how absolutely unique for us who have always assumed, meat should equal spice, at least, if it’s Indian!

Already impressed, chef Fatima Riyaz then brought in servings of Prawn Mudkale, Bhatkali Mutton Biryani and a preparation with mussels that absolutely blew our mind! The prawn preparation was rich and creamy and the small rice dumplings that accompanied the seafood in a thick gravy made it a dish that seemed absolutely complete in itself. This truly needed nothing else. It was just perfect in itself. The biryani was good and the mussels were some of the best we’ve ever eaten. As our colleague who joined us for the meal said, “we’ve eaten so much and still feel so light,” we couldn’t help but agree. Maybe, this, after all, is the sign of an evolved cuisine at the end of the day?

We skipped dessert and settled for some Assam Tea and as we chatted away with friends into the night, deep down we kept hoping that Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru Outer Ring Road would invite us over for another food pop-up super soon and we could look forward to their exemplary quality in food, once again — we could get used to this, you know?

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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