This Bengaluru bistro provides cosmopolitan charm while reimagining old, authentic recipes

Tucked away at the corner of Infantry Road, Juliana’s Bistro weaves together the cosmopolitan spirit of New York with the old-world charm of Bengaluru. The outdoor section of the bistro is adorned with cobblestone flooring, set amidst lush greenery that offers a small oasis in the heart of the city.

Juliana’s Bistro: A meal of subtle starters, comforting mains and a sweet, familiar finish

Inside, the ambience is cosy and inviting. Bathed in warm yellow lighting, the green tiles, lime-washed walls and a hand-painted mural of an open-petalled rose provide a sanctuary from the urban hustle just outside its doors. The interiors are intimate without being cramped, stylish yet unpretentious.

Our review began with their Balsamic-Glazed Mushrooms as an appetiser. Earthy baked mushrooms cradled a lush filling of goat cheese and wilted spinach — the richness was offset by a cranberry-balsamic glaze that teased the palate with sweet-tart precision. The dish was thoughtfully plated, signalling the care the kitchen takes with even the smallest of details. Alongside the appetiser, we sipped on a strawberry matcha latte. Walking on the tightrope with its sweetness of strawberries never cloying and the bitterness gently restrained, the drink felt both playful and poised, striking a balance between comfort and intrigue.

Venturing into their pan-Asian menu, we ordered Edamame and Green Pea Dumplings. The dumplings, served along with truffle oil, were soft and steamed to perfection, though they delivered just a whisper of flavour – subtle to a fault. While they looked exquisite, we found ourselves wishing for a little more boldness on the palate.

For our main course, we decided to select from among the old, authentic recipes the bistro has come to be known for and zeroed in on a Vegetable Au Gratin. It was a medley of baked vegetables, creamy white cheese and a hint of tang y Italian tomato sauce, combined with a bed of mashed potatoes to create a dish that feels like a warm hug. Perhaps its flavours were not ground breaking, but its comforting simplicity was its greatest strength — the sort of dish one might return for on a grey day.

As we came to the end of the review, the lights were dimmed and the tempo of the music increased, transfor ming the place into an ideal setting for a candlelight dinner. A Classic Tiramisu, with its soft layers of coffee-soaked sponge and mascarpone, served as a pleasant and familiar end to our meal.

Meal for two: INR 1,500 onwards. At Infantry Road.

Written by: Prishita Tahilramani

Email: indulge@newindianexpress.com

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