⁠Back in time: Kolkata sips through time with these heritage bars!

In a city where there’s a new lounge opening everyday, getting a quiet watering hole is quite a task. And the few existing ones, most with a legacy dating back to the pre-Independence era, are still carrying on despite the influx of swish lounge bars. From the no-frills camaraderie of Cecil to the old-world charm of Shaw Brothers, these places are more than mere watering holes. These places stand strong and resilient against winds of change, drawing a loyal crowd and holding untold stories waiting to be shared.

Shaw Brothers or Chhota Bristol, was probably a first-of-its-kind drinking bar in Kolkata that opened around 152 years back for commoners to enjoy their drink. Today, the place has a renovated seating area with air conditioning and is run by fourth and fifth-generation proprietors, still serving channa with julienned ginger as a side for your favourite drinks. Anjan Kumar Shaw and Uday Kumar Shaw, (originally Saha) tell us, “People who come here are mostly regulars. We have seen many strangers bonding over drinks. The concept is that of an Irish bar or tavern, where one shares tables with strangers. No music, no cacophony, just drinking and socialising,” the owners say.

Tucked away in the ever-bustling Esplanade area, New Cathay, founded in 1945, has witnessed a significant period of historical transition, particularly during the British colonial rule to India’s independence and beyond. The restaurant, which started out as a Chinese outlet has remained a timeless part of Kolkata’s dining scene, and now serves a multi-cuisine menu. The establishment is now run by Amreen Rahman and her father Abidur Rahman. “Being a woman, I still at times, encounter biases and assumptions that my father may not have faced. However, these challenges also present opportunities to bring fresh perspectives and foster inclusivity,” shares Amreen, who feels staying relevant in a constantly evolving landscape is both an exciting challenge and a creative opportunity. Quite interestingly, unlike any other bar, they also make buttery fruit cakes in bhattis, only to keep the charm of Calcutta Christmas alive.

Take a deep breath in front of the iconic bar, Broadway at Ganesh Chandra Avenue to inhale nostalgia. The crispy-fried fish paired with a chilled glass of draught beer at this bar and restaurant, which goes back to 1937, has always been a haven for dreamers, storytellers, and friends seeking warmth in its vintage vibe. Resonating with the other modern-day places, the place hosts musical nights almost every week with artistes and bands playing jazz, pop and classical rock music. Broadway’s Raghav Prem Sehgal shares, “I really enjoy how the place has become a hot pod of generations, where parents come with their wards to introduce them to their first mug of beer, making Broadway the go-to place for the newer generations.”

A favourite for office-goers, Cecil Bar & Restaurant in Lal Bazar is currently owned by Malkit Singh, who took over the business some 24 years back. The place was set up sometime before independence and was frequented by tired souls during post office hours, where they rested their feet for drinks with a side of veg or chicken pakoras or the chilli chicken. It still continues to serve all that in an air-conditioned setting on the first floor.

The reins of the popular Tripty’s Bar and Restaurant have changed hands thrice since it opened in 1935, with the business here running mostly on goodwill and an exclusive clientele that simply loves coming back. Initially started by a woman, Bani Rani, it’s now again under the supervision of Saralipi Banerjee. Located in Bhawanipore, this was a haven for mavericks like Ritwik Ghatak and Tarun Kumar, who were spotted back in the day relishing every bit of their iconic Mutton liver kosha along with drinks. Manager Debananda Chowdhury shares, “Since the building is too old to get a complete overhaul, no changes have been made with time. In fact, customers come back for this next-door vibe only.”

Probably there isn’t a single person unaware of Olypub’s existence and the popularity of its Chateaubriand beef steak, chicken ala kiev or mixed grills. A juicy chunk of meat paired with mashed potatoes and boiled peas and topped with a gooey poached egg, is what you need to try here, at least for the sake of history. From Olympia Bar & Restaurant in 1947 to becoming Olypub in 1981, this place in Park Street has come a long way. With revamped interiors, this pub is popular among the oldies and the GenZs alike. NC Das, the accounts executive at Oly Pub, who has been working here for over 40 years, never thought of switching his job. “It is the ambience that brings back people. People come here alone, with friends or family to spend time for hours together without being politely disturbed by the waiters to vacate the table,” he tells us the secret behind the pub’s popularity.