Back in time: The original cafes of Kolkata are older than we can think of!

For anyone who’s grown up in Kolkata, the allure of its cafés lies not just in the food but in the stories they tell. In a city where every corner seems to hum with history, the old cafés, also known as cabins—some over a century old—offer the comfort of nostalgia. With their distinct wooden chairs and tables, faded dogeared menus and unbelievable price point, these cabins are more than eateries. They are living relics of a bygone era, where conversations flowed as freely as cups of cha.

As Calcuttans, we’ve often wondered about the footfall of these spaces. It isn’t just nostalgia; it’s something deeper. These establishments, which flourished during the British Raj, were places where families dined, students debated politics, and couples whispered secrets—each table a small, private world. Even as the city has transformed embracing Instagram-worthy cafés with their chic décor and artisanal menus, many of us still find solace in the quiet, unassuming charm of places like The Café in Hazra, Dilkhusa Cabin in College Street, or Anadi Cabin near Esplanade.

There’s a certain magic to these cafés that can’t be replicated—a sense of stepping into a time capsule where the hustle of the city fades away. And yet, they’re not just about history. They’re about holding their ground in a city that is forever reinventing itself. As we wander through their creaking doors, we wonder what keeps them alive in the face of change? Perhaps, it’s their ability to offer something no Instagrammable café can—authenticity, warmth, and the soul of Kolkata.

Blending away the generational gap

These cafés are the forerunners of some iconic recipes that talk highly of Kolkata on the foodmap of India…be it the Moglai porota from Anadi Cabin or the Special prawn cutlet from Allen Kitchen. “It’s about the quintessential, no-fuss items on the menu,” says Utpal Basu, fifth generation owner of Dilkhusa Cabin. “Even though we had to revamp our interiors since it was all damaged during Amphan (cyclone) in 2020, the flavours are still the same. We are the first to make the Kabiraji cutlet and people mostly come for that. To cater to the newer customers, we have introduced chilli chicken and hakka noodles, but that is nothing compared to the ones you would find in the market,” he adds.

The freshness of flavours

Fresh ingredients and transparency between the customers and the brands go a long way, they say. Some even follow the modern concept of an open kitchen. “We have nothing to hide. We make and fry the snack items that are visible to the customers. Even the kasundi we serve is prepared in-house, everyday,” says Subrata Saha, the fourth generation owner of Allen Kitchen on Jatindra Mohan Avenue, which has been functioning for 140 years. Subrata, along with his brothers Dipak and Goutam, run this café. Even The Cafe in Hazra, just beside the Jatin Das Park metro station, makes fresh batches of kasundi every day, shares Amal Chandra Sahoo, who has been working in this 88-year-old café for the last 46 years. And you would definitely feel the difference in taste if you have it. Milder and whitish with a hint of posto bata (poppy seed paste), this kasundi tastes best with their piping hot, lightly crumb-coated fish fry.

Stories behind the walls

If you visit these places, especially in the evening, you would find many solo diners from diverse backgrounds enjoying their mutton cutlet or dimer devil with a cup of hot chai or coffee. While senior citizens travel long distances to get a taste of their favourite items, a large number of middle-aged people are also spotted here, solo or in groups, enjoying a tea session before heading home back after office. You could also see youngster discussing their newly started professional life or couples catching up after a day’s grind. As the cafés start to close for the day, the voices of the people dropping by would be like music to the ears, no talking, just hushed voices and a lot of rush.

Carrying forward the legacy

These cafés, mostly owned by Bengali business households, are run by the younger generations who are trying to carry forward the legacy. “We make sure to control the quality so that there’s no room for any complaint,” adds Vivekananda Pan, fourth generation owner from Niranjan Agar. “And even with the ever-changing foodscape, I think what never dies down are the heritage recipes. For us, it’s not just a family business but a blessing of Scottish man Allen, who first launched this eatery and handed it over to my grandfather,” adds Saha of Allen Kitchen, who like many others, has no plans to branch out or opt for the franchise model.