Mango Mania: Writing Bengal’s history through the king of fruits

Amidst the pitter patter or cats and dogs of Kaalbaisakhi rains, one common sight is children and elders alike making a run for their nearest mango tree with sticks or stones. After several trials, some which might even include some acrobatics, when the first few mangoes fall to the ground, there is excitement to take a bite of their hard-earned prize. Of course rainwater is good enough for a quick wash and then the sweet and sour pulpy mango is devoured in no time. Such is the craze for the King of Fruits that is in season during summers for a short span, and Bengal has its own connection with it.

The ‘Aamazing’ Story of Mangoes

Mangoes are locally grown in Bengal in the districts of Murshidabad and Malda, which have the highest mango orchards. Some are grown in West Midnapore also. In fact, turning the pages of history, when Nawab Murshid Quli Jafar Khan shifted his kingdom from Dhaka to a district in Bengal, now known as Murshidabad, after his name, he facilitated the plantation of mango orchards around 1704.

Another interesting slice of trivia is that the Battle of Plassey took place in a mango orchard. Thus, making the fruit have historical, social and artistic relevance in the cultural scape of Bengal, than just being a culinary favourite.

Today, almost 124 + varieties of Mangoes are grown in Murshidabad alone, including Fazli, Himsagar, Lakshmanbhog, Khirsapati in Malda and more. If we are to spell the mango varieties, it would take us page after page, whether on actual paper or digital notepads. But let's explore some of the most popular varieties of mangoes that are desired by all and often find their way as it is or through mango shakes, cakes, daal, chutney, achaar, mousse, and this list too is equally endless!

Himsagar

One of the most sought after varieties in the mango season is the Himsagar. Often considered as a benchmark for how a mango should look, smell and taste, they are desired for their premium taste, aroma and texture. A hybrid between Neelum and Langra, these are slightly oval and very sweet. It is this sweetness which makes them fall under the most wanted category of mangoes. Himsagar is locally available everywhere in the markets and often gets sold out very fast. They are best eaten fresh. Also, did you know that Himsagar holds a GI tag?

Gulab Khash

Eating a mango is just not an activity of the mouth. It’s an activity which triggers all your senses, like when eating a Gulab Khash, you close your eyes and take the rosy aroma in, which might confuse you for a moment if there’s a plate of mango in front or you are in a garden of roses. Grown primarily in the Eastern belt of India, they are found in the orchards of Murshidabad, Malda and Nadia. These are slightly oblong and flattened but sweet and tangy in taste. The best ways to enjoy them are eating fresh or by making desserts out of them. These are often available in local high-end markets and mango exhibitions.

Begum Pasand

Like the name suggests, Begum Pasand means the choice of the Begums. Historically, this variety has been a favourite of the women of the noble households and has served royalty for decades. Varying between pale green to golden yellow, these are fibreless and buttery smooth. Their short lives make them one of the most desirable varieties but also one that is rare to find. These are usually sweet with a sudden jolt of tanginess in between flavours.

Brindabani

Grown locally in Malda district of Bengal, the Brindabani mangoes are found during May–June. These are oval, elongated, green to yellow in colour and sweet. Due to its sweetness and short lives, they are consumed fresh or the pulp is extracted to make sweet dishes. These mangoes are one of the traditional, indigenous ones but also ones which are requiring conservation in contemporary times. Due to urbanisation, climate change and low quantity of traditional mango orchards, they are not getting the ideal conditions to grow and facing scarcity.

Kohitoor

Even the King of Fruits has a King of Varieties – The Kohitoor. Phonetically sounding similar to the Kohinoor diamond, it truly is special among mangoes. Developed in the 18th century by Hakim Ada Mohammadi on the orders of Nawab Siraj ud Daulah, it was a status symbol for the elite class and was even patronized by the Sherherwali Jains. In shape, they are slightly oval, medium in size and vary from pale green to light yellow in colour. They are usually available from mid to late June and can only be tasted through private tastings or a few rare exhibitions. Due to their short shelf lives, quantity and high fragility they are not sold in the mass market.

Anaras

Upon simply hearing the name, you would literally translate it to a pineapple because that’s the most logical thing to do. But, here is the catch! Anaras is actually a heritage mango variety which takes its properties from both a mango and a pineapple. This mango is grown in the orchards of Murshidabad and has a sweet and tangy pineapple flavour and aroma. This variety is often used in the preparation of experimental items like Mango Patishyapta, Mango Rabri, and other savouries apart from being consumed fresh.