Tamil flavours are finally getting the pride of place they deserve. Following on the heels of Kari Theory, a restobar at Radisson Blu, is Sangamithirai, a fine dining restaurant at Feathers, which opened its doors earlier this month. After extensive travels across the state, researching recipes and cooking styles from mess owners and homemakers in places like Pollachi, Erode and Dharmapuri, executive chef Prem Kumar Naidu tells us the menu boasts a hundred dishes, including a page dedicated solely to eight different varieties of rasam! And after you place your order, see if you can count the number of kolams used as part of the décor — from cushions to coasters.
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Who moved my bommai?
You could also snap a quick selfie with the handmade thalaiyatti bommaigal (dolls) from Thanjavur that sit pretty at each table, while you wait for your food. We’re surprised when the first course that arrives is a ‘salad’ instead of a dosai or paniyaram. The Quail Egg creation with julienned carrots and onions and a simple gingelly oil-lemon dressing we’re told is a special addition and has fast become a hit with the hotel’s expat guests. We dig in alongside sips of our Kanni Theevu (tender coconut mocktail) from the beverage selection; the Paaku Veththalai with gin and betel leaves piques our curiosity as well.
'Shrimply' the best
As our appetisers roll out, we notice that while the flavourscape is Tamil as promised, the presentation is contemporary. The Eeral Kallu Kaluvai (pan tossed shrimp) doesn’t come in a copper kadai but instead has been plated like an elevated sphere taking centre stage on the plate, alongside a garnish of gun powder dust for a touch of finesse. Meanwhile, our Pulaal rasam, which is a flavour packed mutton broth tempered with peppercorns and garlic is poured into a broad bottomed soup bowl which already has finely diced tomato and mutton cubes ready and waiting. We find out that all the rasams, four veg and four non veg are available everyday, with roughly “24 litres of rasam” being prepped in total. The immunity boosting Nandu Iruchi (spicy crab rasam) is a crowd favourite.
Kari on, so much to taste
To keep the flavours authentic and the masalas potent and consistent, chef Prem tells us that two experts from Karaikudi and Thanjavur have been roped in to the kitchen staff. We nod our heads, distracted with the Kari Dosai now holding our attention that we enjoy with a Nallampatti Karunkozhi Pirattal (Black chicken from Erode). Semi dry, spicy and tossed in dried chillies and shallots, this dish is a must-order. Also, not to miss is the classic Uppu Urundai with a fiery red chutney and Vaigai Vellaattu Nei Chukka (mutton chukka) from the banks of the Vaigai River.
Dessert features a unique preparation of Plantain Leaf Halwa, yes you read that right. Sweet and rich. But the dish that has our heart is a forgotten delight from Karaikudi — Rettai Dosai. Expect a double layer of dosai that is made much like a pancake, except stuffed with grated coconut and jaggery. Sweet dreams are made of dosai.
Meal for two with beverages at INR 3,500. For dinner only.