This ongoing food festival in Chennai, dedicated to bringing classic Tamil flavours to the forefront, thrives on simplicity

“Good food is very often, even most often, simple food,” Anthony Bourdain once said. The thought rang true to us as we entered the dimly lit restaurant, the air thick with the aromas of familiar spices — like when you enter your mother’s kitchen on a warm afternoon inquiring about lunch. The eatery was a hive of activity, people walking around in a choreographed fashion and all voices merging somehow to become one. The entrance was adorned with a towering bommai decked in vibrant colours welcoming the patrons with a smile pasted on her face.

This was the unveiling of the Sangamam Food Festival at the Sangamithirai restaurant. As we entered, a rectangular table covered with a white cloth, laden with curries and dry fries ignited our already heightened appetite. Finding a vacant seat with a prime view, we settled in for a gastronomic adventure that began with Aatu nenju elumbu saru (mutton soup), served in a style reminiscent of plating a lamb chop.

A single enticing mutton shank adorned the white soup plate, bathed in an aromatic broth that was both familiar and comforting. The soup, perfectly thin with a layer of oil, was a symphony of flavours, with the rough dry spice mix taking centre stage. A papad, topped with red chilli seeds and curry leaves, served as the breadstick, adding a satisfying crunch and making a dish a simple, hearty meal.

Next, we indulged in Kayiru katti kola urundai, a delightful fusion of textures and flavours. Perfectly crunchy on the outside, the soft, rich, and spicy inside was a revelation. A hint of cinnamon added warmth, making these irresistible mutton balls disappear at an alarming rate. Alongside, we tried the Kasa Kasa Yeral Porichathu (prawn fry), a street-style delicacy with a twist. Succulent prawns, coated in a ground mixture of poppy seeds, coriander, soaked rice, chillies, and cumin, were a delightful combination of local spices and crunch. This set the stage for the main course, with our expectations heightening.

The Parotta and Salna provided a classic Tamil pairing. The former, although slightly oily, was perfectly layered and crispy. When paired with the tangy salna, a flavourful blend of tomato, vegetables, and local Tamil spices, it was a match made in culinary heaven. Along with it, we indulged in Mutton biriyani, a simple yet satisfying dish elevated by the generous use of ghee and the refreshing aroma of mint and coriander, making the course a dream lunch.

INR 2,000++ (Veg), `2,500 ++ (Non-veg). Until August 31. Lunch and dinner. At Feathers, A Radha Hotel, Manapakkam.

Email-MayurKaushal @newindianexpress.com

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