The night sky glimmered with stars, and the wind howled softly as we walked inside the storied building that nestled Khaas - The Elevated Indian Kitchen & Bar, a newly opened resto-bar in the city. Outside the lift, people assembled in a line, their eyes glued to the glowing red floor numbers. At last, an elevator arrived, and we all walked inside, ascending towards the promise of a night to remember.
As we reached the floor that housed the restaurant, a symphony of music and conversation greeted us, one dissolving into the other. The bar—alive with light, laughter, and clinking glasses—was a hive of activity. Bartenders moved around swiftly, pouring drinks, trying to decipher the orders, and showing the assorted menu to the guests dressed in their finest.
Making our way through the chaos, we finally arrived at the counter. After a long session of contemplation, our choice materialised in a tall glass topped with a sprig of mint and a gleaming gold chocolate leaf. Listed as Bhagava on the menu, the drink pleased our tongues with its mix of gin, saffron-laced vodka, bourbon, and tonic—a complex flavour palette, rich with a chocolaty undertone, refreshed by a whisper of mint.
As our tummies rumbled, we walked to the terrace seating area, passing through the second floor, which presented the same scene of merriment. Aromas of spices and barbequed dishes hung in the air— tantalising, irresistible.
The terrace, illuminated by soft lights and filled with a light breeze, offered a quiet escape and a glimpse of Chennai’s sprawling skyline. There, our culinary adventure began with the biriyanis—vegetarian and non-vegetarian. The Subz dum biriyani, a homage to Awadhi tradition, boasted fragrant spices and a rich flavour of ghee. Vegetables, tender yet crisp, sang of cardamom, a note that lingered. The cocktail sipped alongside revealed its playful complexity— gin’s essence entwined with saffron’s warmth, a beautiful counterpoint to the biriyani’s richness.
The Chicken biriyani, a medley of masala and mint-marinated chicken, and perfectly steamed fragrant rice, was a revelation. The dum cooked chicken was so tender that it came off the bone, bearing a local spice mix that elevated every bite. Our indulgence continued with Palak paneer— soft cubes of cottage cheese housed in a spinach and cream gravy, elevated with the zest of garlic and the warmth of cumin and garam masala.
With this, the meal came to an end, and our hearts felt content. We leaned back, staring at Chennai’s skyline glittering with dreams. The wind teased our faces, carrying with it a promise — this was one of many nights when we would find ourselves at Khaas.
Meal for two: INR 2,000++. At Briley One, Ethiraj Salai, Egmore.
Email: mayurkaushal@newindianexpress.com
X: @kaushalmayur