Flavours that flirt and fight: a decadent dive into Asian classics

At the food festival Treasures of the Orient, the flavours don’t arrive politely, they swagger in, own the table, and keep you going back for seconds (and thirds).

We begin, as always, with the appetisers section, where the La za chicken immediately grabs attention, a fiery mound of red chillies nearly burying the golden, batter-fried pieces beneath. The spice arrives dry and sharp, the kind that lingers at the back of the throat rather than flooding the palate. Each piece of chicken is bite-sized, batter-fried until crisp, and seasoned with a special in-house chilli mix. And yet, we keep going back for more.

Our palates find relief in the Mapo tofu, silken tofu cubes boiled in dark soy sauce, then simmered in a wok with garlic, ginger, chilli oil, sesame pepper oil, black beans, and hot sesame paste. Chef Pukar Thapa says a final splash of cooking wine and starch gives it that luscious, oily finish.

Next, we try the Kung pao chicken, tamarind-rich and glistening, with just enough crunch from peanuts to keep things cheeky, while a riot of onions and capsicum cuts through the richness.

Then comes the surprise hit: broccoli and shiitake mushrooms. Despite our usual meat-first bias, this dish wins us over. The mushrooms bring an earthy umami depth, softened and lifted by perfectly blanched broccoli. A light, almost translucent gravy ties it all together.

A detour to Burma brings a bowl of Khowsuey, warm, comforting, and steeped in nostalgia.

The Lamb with ginger and spring onions might be the quietest dish on the table, but it’s one of the best (trust us). Thinly sliced, marinated, battered, and tossed with soy, oyster sauce, and a splash of cooking wine, the lamb turns out absurdly tender. The gravy is clean, gingery, and subtle, letting the meat shine.

Honey chilli prawns show up twice on our plates, slightly overcooked the first time, but redeemed gloriously on the second, coated in a sticky honey-chilli glaze that lingers on both fingers and memory.

Just when we thought we were done, the Hunan fish swims in, flaky, flavour-packed, and the final savoury push before dessert. By now, we’re deep in a food coma already. But we save room (no, make room!) for dessert. The Japanese cheesecake is all cloud and cream, and makes us forget all decorum.

Meal for one: ₹2,579 onwards. Dates: On till 20 June. Timings: 7 am–11 am, 12 noon–3 pm, and 7 pm–11 pm. At The Reef, Sheraton Grand, Neelankarai

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