Fish head curry, mutton biriyani and more: A no-rush ride through Madurai on a plate

When you walk into Madurai Kullapa Mess, it’s not just the food that greets you, it’s Madurai itself. From the first glance at art director S Maniraj’s vibrant wall paintings, showcasing traditional festivals and its sports, from poi kaal aatam to a town leader watching tug-of-war amidst a crowd, you know you’re in for a culturally-loaded, spice-drenched ride.

We began our meal with a selection of non-vegetarian starters. The Mutton liver preparation stood out with a bold, liver-forward flavour. Its mildly spiced gravy allowed the richness to come through without overpowering it. The Vanjaram fry leaned a bit salty and slightly too spicy, but redemption was instant with the Viral meen fry, perfectly balanced, with its classic red marinade delivering a low-key masterclass in fish frying. The best we’ve had in a long while.

Kozhi nei sukka, featuring shredded chicken cooked in ghee and a myriad of spices, offered a comforting contrast with its soft texture and depth of flavour.

And then came the Viral meen thala kuzhambu, intimidating in appearance, glorious in execution. Inside that scary fish head? The softest flesh you’ll find this side of town. Pro tip? Ditch the rice. Drench it in that rich kuzhambu and prepare for transcendence.

For vegetarians, the Paneer tikka was a solid option.

Mains included both Chicken and Mutton biriyani, made with seeraga samba rice. The chicken version was lighter, while the mutton offered a deeper flavour profile. Both were comforting and well-balanced. The Mutton nei sukka was the perfect companion to either.

The Nethili meen kuzhambu was a pleasant surprise, lighter than expected but loaded, rare to find this good in Chennai. From the meals, the Crab kuzhambu may well have been the best of the lot, peppery, slightly rasam-like, and full of flavour. The Chicken kozhambu brought a bit more heat, while the Mutton kozhambu felt more muted in comparison.

Dessert came in the form of a warm, sweet Pineapple kesari, ending the meal on a nostalgic note.

Meal for two: ₹799. From 11.45 am to 11 pm. At Pondy Bazaar, T Nagar.

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