When a Chennai dessert kitchen takes a savoury turn

The story begins with Keerthy Kiran, who founded the Sugar Brush back in 2018. Once a home baker balancing marketing meetings with batches of brownies, she had been thinking about what to add to her space when Abhilasha came along, the missing puzzle piece that completed the picture. Together, they gave the city another reason to step into their cheerful café. Known first for cakes and desserts, the duo has now taken a savoury turn.

Explore new offerings at Chennai's Sugar Brush

We first tried the lemon ricotta with mushrooms and pickled onions on sourdough toast. A dish that looks deceptively simple, it surprises with its layers. There is zest in the ricotta, earthy mushrooms folded in with spring onions, and all of it held together on a crisp base.

Then we try the Turkish eggs — a bowl of herbed yoghurt, on which sit the eggs topped with chilli oil made in-house. The toast that accompanies it almost feels secondary until you use it to scoop up the thick swirls of egg and yoghurt. One diner at our table insisted, “This is not something I would crave,” and yet went on to clear the bowl with quiet determination, leaving the rest of us without even a spoonful to fight over.

For those leaning toward freshness, the rice noodles and gochujang tofu salad is a great option. Peanut, purple cabbage, carrots, and fried garlic sit bright against black sesame seeds and cilantro, with a side of kimchi and gochujang miso dressing. The tofu carries the flavours with ease, and when tossed through with the dressing, the dish comes alive.

The butter board is where the café’s playful spirit shines. Spicy honey, basil, oregano, and tadka butter are set out for dipping and spreading, giving you a taste of everything from an herb garden to an Indian pantry in a few strokes of bread.

And, of course, there are toasts with toppings almost too pretty to disturb. A blueberry and Brie toast with pepper and basil comes plated in neat chequered squares, the pepper sharpening the berries in surprising ways.

At last, we try the chocolate hazelnut with mint and macerated strawberries on toast. It looks indulgent but is airy on the palate, though you will want to finish it before the bread softens under the fruit.

Meal for two: ₹1,000. 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm. At Nungambakkam.

Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya

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