Inside a colourful Chennai restaurant that blends retro India, comfort food, and fun-tastic vibes

We rode up the elevator feeling like Calcutecs lost in Haruki Murakami’s Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World, but the moment we stepped off after what felt like an endless ascent (courtesy of a dreary week), reality hit us.  We walked into what looked suspiciously like an Indian train coach that had overdosed on colours, courtesy of the suitcases stacked up on a luggage rack. Before we could process the décor, the front-desk staff cheerfully ambushed us with, “Madam, please beat the dhol before entering.” And that’s when we knew that this place wasn’t here to just serve food, but vibes as well, jolly ones at that!

Experience retro India and comfort food at this newly launched Chennai restaurant

Jolly Indian, the brainchild of Manoj Padmanabhan, Japtej Ahluwalia, and Gopalsami Mani, takes the idea that India is never dull and turns it into a restaurant that feels like someone crammed the country’s personality into a blender and hit party.

We stepped inside the 65-seater restaurant and one wall greeted us like a visual drumroll. There was a paatti strolling with her cow, an LCU biriyani signboard, an STD/ISD PCO booth straight from the ‘90s, a toddy tapper mid-action, a Rajini punchline, and yes, the legendary Chennai Metre-ku mela auto. But the real showstopper was the potti kadai, with the kadai anna peeking mischievously through a tiny window, and kadalai mittai and puli mittai lined up as edible souvenirs.

Even the menu card was a scene-stealer, featuring a stylish thatha in a crisp veshti and sunglasses, casually pouring milk into a can like a boss, T Rajender in full punchline mode, KR Vijaya coyly sipping coffee, and Rekha oozing retro ‘70s charm.

We soon got to business and tried the Galli Sour, a mocktail of sugarcane, tamarind, citrus, and vegan froth, which was refreshing after our hour-long drive. There was also rose milk, recipe straight from Kalathi Kadai in Mylapore – nostalgia in a glass!

Lunch arrived on steel plates, setting the stage for a proper comfort-food spectacle, and our meal opened with a Smoked Pineapple Chaat that came with as much dramatic flair as colour—froyo, corn salsa, and pineapple mousse all playing beautifully together. What caught us off guard was the bold pineapple tang; we are usually a mango-in-our-papdi-chaat kind of crowd, but this surprise twist won our hearts.

Pickled Artichoke Fritters were up next, crispy and crunchy pan-fried bites made with artichokes, which were interestingly delivered with a tiny newspaper full of ‘food gossip’. The Chettinad Shepherd’s Pie arrived looking traditional but tasting wildly indulgent, its juicy, tender chicken along with urulai varuval mash turning the whole dish into instant comfort food. Newto(w)n Chicken Tikka joined in with charred, delectable pieces that delivered bold flavour in every bite.

Just as we settled into our chairs, we heard vigorous churning behind us and turned to see a customer, enthusiastic as a kid on their birthday morning, making his own lassi in the traditional style!

Meanwhile, the mains marked their entry. The Pandara Road Butter Chicken, creamy and perfectly balanced, paired well with Pesto and Parmesan Naan that felt like Italy slipping into Punjab, while the Asparagus and Walnut Pulao proved to be a surprisingly compatible companion with the Butter Chicken.

As we wrapped up, a staff member strolled through loudly announcing “Chai! Chai!” like a railway vendor chasing a moving train, only to be one-upped by a customer who marched in with “Coffee! Coffee!” in perfect railway-station rhythm.

We ended our meal with the pillowy-soft Rasmalai and a fragrant, dreamy Elaneer Payasam that felt like the culinary equivalent of a lullaby after a colourful and entertaining show.

Meal for two: Rs 1,800++ 

Lunch: 12.30 pm to 3.30 pm

7 pm to 11 pm (currently open for dinner)

At CP Ramaswamy Iyer Road, Alwarpet.

sangeetha.p@newindianexpress.com

X-@psangeetha2112

For more updates, join/follow our

https://www.whatsapp.com/channel/0029Vb677uz60eBXiDYheb0n

https://t.me/+qUK5DvyQQJI2NWFl

https://www.youtube.com/indulgeexpress