Ushnakala Food Festival in Chennai: Refreshing South Indian summer dishes to beat the heat

Chennai’s sun is currently showing no mercy, turning even the simplest outing into a proper test of endurance, like trying to stroll through a blazing kiln at full tilt. It has, inevitably, begun to pare down our plates as well, with heavier meals giving way to lighter, more heat-friendly fare. Savya Rasa seems to be very much on the same page with its seasonal food festival, Ushnakala, which translates quite directly to ‘hot season’. The menu of this Chennai food festival draws from South India’s time-honoured culinary traditions, bringing together dishes designed to cool the body, nourish it, and make the relentless heat just a tad more bearable.

Beat the Chennai heat with these refreshing South Indian summer specialities

We had barely settled in when a glass of Nannari sherbet arrived, presented with a slice of cucumber. It was refreshing, with an earthy sweetness balanced by a faint herbal note that lingered in a rather pleasant way.

Close on its heels came our summer favourite Kambu koozh (pearl millet porridge), the fermented staple that has been quietly doing the rounds for generations to keep people cool. Brewed overnight in clay pots, it was soothing and comforting, clearly made with a steady hand. We have been trying our own version at home of late, so we fancied ourselves rather confident, only to find theirs was a cut above.

The accompaniments really bring it to life. The mutton pickle is robust with a slow-building heat, the fish pickle is sharper and saltier, while the mango pickle cuts through with a tangy sharpness. Together, they hit all the right notes and keep each spoonful from becoming samey. And of course, no koozh feels complete without a bit of sundried Kothavarangai vathal on the side.

The dish we had been waiting for made its entrance next. The Pathaneer idli with Puducherry yeral nungu kuzhambu was as intriguing as it sounds. The idli, made with palm nectar, carried a delicate sweetness and was as soft as mallippoo (jasmine), while the kuzhambu was creamy with a subtle sweetness from the nungu, or ice apple. The prawns added depth and a gentle brininess, while the gravy tied everything together with a rather luxurious consistency.

Mango, the star of the season, took centre stage in the latter half of the meal. The Manga malli sadam is light and fragrant, with the raw mango lending a mild tartness. Paired with Cucumber poriyal and white pumpkin pachadi, it was gentle on the palate.

The Maambazha pulissery that followed, a traditional Kerala preparation with ripe mangoes, coconut and curd, offered a comforting blend of sweetness and tang, with the yoghurt base adding a subtle richness. We polished this off with some steamed rice, as one does, not wanting to leave a scrap behind.

We finished with a Mango pudding that was simple, elegant, and a fitting tribute to the fruit’s natural charm. By the end of the meal, we felt refreshed, properly fed, and quietly chuffed with ourselves for having kept the heat at bay, if only for a couple of hours.

Meal for two: Rs 1,800 ++

On till April 30

From 11.30 am to 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 11 pm

At Kotturpuram. 

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