

As we walked into the newly reopened Cookgramam in Anna Nagar, it felt like stepping into a thoughtfully restored Tamil village memory. Everything here embraced us with wide hands—from the thinnai-style seating and kaithari woven chairs to the Athangudi tiles and the quiet muttram with its gentle waterfall. An organic vegetarian fine diner, this restaurant boasts traditional yet modern food that is rooted in soil, seasons, and slow living.
We began with the welcome drink as we settled into the thinnai. The Vin thamarai sharbath, made with white lotus, amazed us with how refreshing and grounded it felt—almost like a softer, floral cousin of nannari. From there, the soups arrived. The Manjal poosani saaru looked deceptively turmeric-heavy but revealed the gentle sweetness of yellow pumpkin, lifted beautifully by ghee. The Pollachi thengai pal kaikari soup followed, which had coconut milk, vegetables, and beans coming together like a stew disguised as a soup. We were encouraged to have the soups with crisp vegetable fryums, and it worked wonderfully.
Starters kept the mood playful. The Nei podi cholam paniyaram, made with red millet, came shaped like tiny paniyarams, lightly spiced, and served with a sauce made up of curry leaf, yoghurt, and mashed potato. The Maa inji masala bonda looked like a regular bonda but surprised us with the taste of mango ginger inside—tangy, earthy, and satisfying. Poricha vendakkai followed, bringing a familiar, home-style crunch that needed no embellishment.
The mains were where Cookgramam truly took it home. The Seeraga samba kaikari biriyani was fragrant and balanced, the tiny grains carrying spice without heaviness, and paired well with kathirikai masala and cooling raita. We also tried the Thenga pal sadam—rice cooked in coconut milk with vegetables — gentle, comforting, and quietly luxurious. These were served alongside Paruppu urundai kuzhambu, which featured lentils in a ball.
If you are into thalis, then they have that too. After the nourishing starters and mains, we could only manage to sip through the thick and smooth Thovayal kanji and a few spoonfuls of rice and accompaniments from the Saiva virundhu platter. We, however, regretted not being able to experience the thali to our heart’s content.
This was followed by the desserts, which stayed true to the theme of tradition. Kummaayam was rich and slow-cooked, while Akkaravadisal delivered pure temple-style comfort, sweet without excess.
Meal for two: INR 1,500. 11 am to 11 pm. At Cookgramam, Anna Nagar.
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