The perfect pairing: Savoury sichuan spices meet classic French charm at this cafe-restaurant

Nestled within the vibrant pulse of Nungambakkam, the iconic Alliance Française de Madras has long been a celebrated hub for cultural discovery. Yet, these days, it’s offering a rather delicious new way to connect, boasting two indulgent cafés that invite you to linger. Patricia Théry Hart, director of AF Madras, fondly describes La Maison—a charming café-library—as a ‘third home’ that sits between the home and work. Here you can grab a book, sip coffee, and probably make new friends. Meanwhile, Van Dough is a café restaurant that serves up a delightful spread of French delicacies and beyond.

Why this café restaurant is Nungambakkam’s newest culinary escape

We walked into Van Dough expecting comfort food with a twist and walked out pleasantly surprised by how confidently the kitchen plays with flavours.

We began with Crispy fried oyster mushrooms. We were told that it is a fan-favourite, and we knew why as soon as we took a bite of it. The double-dredged coating was crisp, giving way to the mushroom flavour. However, it had an uncanny resemblance to the crispy fried chicken strips. We bet one could not have distinguished it from its non-vegetarian counterpart.

Sugarcane chicken, yet another signature dish arrived next and this one was quietly impressive. Minced chicken flavoured with celery, garlic, lemongrass, and kaffir lime was wrapped around a sugarcane stick, crumbed in panko and fried. If you love the flavour of lemongrass, then this will not disappoint you. Dipped into the homemade green Sichuan sauce, it became punchy and aromatic.

The Chicken satay felt comforting in the best way. The skewers were well-grilled, tender, and generously coated in a creamy Thai peanut sauce that leaned nutty rather than sweet.

We then paused briefly with the Van Dough hot chocolate before delving into the pizzas that Van Dough is known for.

The Ratatouille pizza was lighter than expected, with marinara acting as a clean base for grilled tomatoes, aubergine, and zucchini. The French onion pizza was richer and more playful. Inspired by French onion soup, it came topped with gruyere, mozzarella, and deeply caramelised onions.

Things took a bolder turn with the Kundapuri ghee roast chicken pizza. The chicken carried the warmth of ghee roast spices, balanced by marinara, sweet raw jaggery dust and pickled ginger.

From the pasta section, the Butter sage gnocchi was pure comfort. Soft, pillowy potato dumplings coated in nutty burnt butter, crisp sage leaves and parmesan melted in the mouth effortlessly.

We ended with a Madeleine from La Maison—light and gently sweet— a calm finish after a generously flavoured meal.

Meal for two: INR 1,500++. Weekdays: 10 am to 10 pm. Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 10 am to 11. pm. At Alliance Française de Madras, Nungambakkam, Chennai.

Email: apurva.p@newindianexpress.com

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