From koonthal shappu fry to Elaneer pudding, this diner serves the nostalgic taste of Kerala in Chennai

The air at Oru Kerala Story hangs heavy with the scent of roasted peppercorns and burning firewood, immediately transporting you to a quiet corner of rural Kerala. Originally, owners Sourab Mohan Das and Nithyashree planned to call the space Mini’s Adukkala, but went with the current name for easy understanding of Tamil locals. Using thatched accents, they’ve successfully replicated the charm of a toddy shop. By partnering with chef and consultant Arun Vijayan, a seasoned hand from the likes of Taj and Marriott, they’ve transformed the space into a sanctuary for authentic regional flavours spanning from Malabar to Travancore. As Chef Arun puts it: “Must try is our fish tawa masala... and there are no fusion dishes. All our dishes are very traditional.”

Oru Kerala Story brings toddy-shop charm and authentic coastal flavours to Chennai’s Uthandi

Our journey began with the Koonthal shappu fry. It struck that perfect balance with intense toddy-shop spices without the rubbery texture often found in squid. Next came a standout: the Thenga manga chemmeen. It’s creamy, with a subtle tang from the raw mango that lets the natural sweetness of the prawns come through.

For the mains, the Karimeen tawa fry arrived, flaky and draped in a house-made marinade. It’s clear that Chef Arun’s insistence on consistency is paying off.

The Chicken kariveppila was an aromatic delight, really forward with the scent of toasted curry leaves. However, our heart belonged to the Syrian duck mappas paired with Ney pathal. The duck was tender, in a rich, coconut-milk-based gravy with a little bit of rustic spices. While the Thalassery chicken biryani featured generous chunks of meat, it felt like it was missing a final “oomph”, though the fact that it’s cooked over actual firewood gives it a smoky depth you won’t find elsewhere. We finished with the Elaneer pudding. Forget the jelly-like versions you’ve had; this one features a touch of rabdi, elevating it to a creamy, custard-like dream that we’re still thinking about.

Meal for two: Rs 600++. From 11.30 am to 11 pm. At Oru Kerala Story, Uthandi.

Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya

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