A cosy new Chennai spot for sushi and cocktails

Koiro doesn’t waste space, and that’s precisely its charm. The room is compact but layered thoughtfully, with a softly lit geometric ceiling and monochrome panels that subtly reference East Asian landscapes. Beige upholstered chairs and sleek black tables keep the aesthetic clean and contemporary, while the low lighting gives the space an easy intimacy that makes you want to stay awhile.

Sushi, cocktails, and cheesecake shine at this Chennai spot

We started with the Tom yum soup and it did what a good tom yum should. Generous chicken, lemongrass cutting through cleanly, heat that stayed on the lips a beat longer than expected. A solid start. Then came the Crab meat spicy egg drop soup, and the table went quiet. The sweetness of the crab comes through first, the umami follows, and bird’s eye chilli drops in occasionally to remind you it’s there.

The Sichuan tofu won us over completely. Crispy outside, impossibly soft inside, and the chilli oil we spooned generously over it just tied everything together.

The Baby octopus in black bean sauce was a near miss. The sauce itself was excellent, but the octopus had been cooked a touch too long, and the chewiness worked against it. The chilli garlic lobster, similarly, didn't quite deliver. The wok char was there, the spring onions, the intention, but the sauce ran too thin.

Back on form with the Salmon nigiri, which turned out to be one of the better bites of the night. Wasabi tucked inside, so it finds you when you’re not expecting it. The dumplings held their ground without doing anything surprising. Reliable, well-executed, no complaints.

The Seared tuna tataki was beautifully done, the exterior catching just right. It comes with rice and a sauce that leaned a little too salty for us, but the tuna itself was hard to fault.

At the bar, the Earth to Heaven was a tequila, watermelon, and jalapeño situation that was far gentler on the heat than the name implies. The Heaven of the World brought whiskey, amaretto, orange and pineapple notes, and a quiet oakiness that made it easy to nurse. The Red Floyd, rum-based with yuzu and berry, felt like it hadn’t fully decided what it wanted to be.

We ended the meal with the Black sesame mousse with honey crumble and the Japanese cheesecake, the latter is our personal favourite. Pillowy, cloud-like, and airy, balancing mild tanginess from the cream cheese with delicate hints of vanilla, it just stole our hearts.

Meal for two: Rs 3,000. From 6 pm to 11.30 pm. At Koiro, RA Puram.

Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya

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