The banana leaf in front of us gently weeps under the weight of our feast. We can’t hear it of course, whilst devouring mounds of aromatic Mutton Biryani, Liver Fry in a coarse masala and the hottest seller, this evening, a Madurai-style Kola Urundai, except with chicken instead of mutton. We’re seated in the thick of a buzz of waiters swarming tables at the newly-opened Madrass Marina Mess on Radha Krishna Salai. The spacious 72-seater does not resemble a mess but as we’re told by owner Akshey Kapoor, “The homely flavours do. As do the prices.” We agree when we find out that the non-vegetarian meal (unlimited) is priced at INR 149.
Love on the brain
This is Akshey’s first taste of the restaurant biz, but his more seasoned partners — his uncle Surendranath Kapoor and Surendranath’s sons, Nihal and Harsh, own a franchise of 27 Culinary Street just a floor below and multiple franchises of Chai Galli around the city. We say a quick hello to the whole family — but find ourselves unabashedly more attentive to the highly-anticipated Brain Fry that has just arrived at our table. Tis’ melt-in-the-mouth delicious; this is what finger-lickin' good laced with a South Indian spice symphony looks like.
Summer of 65
Sadly, the Mutton paya isn’t available to follow suit, but we make a taste tour of some of the other signatures on the menu. The Paneer 65 is a touch rubbery, we give this a pass after a few nibbles. The Chicken 65 redeems it by far, making us chow down a few more pieces than intended for our ‘sampling’ plan and finally, the Meen Kozhambu paired with steaming white rice is tangy comfort. Dessert is a Kesari Halwa which is pleasant but forgettable, leaving room for a bonus serving of that spectacular Chicken Kola Urundai.
Meal for two at INR 400.