Discover the secret to perfect Challah: Tangzhong technique and olive oil magic

Imagine sinking your teeth into a slice of challah so exquisitely soft and pillowy that it practically melts in your mouth. This dream can be yours with a simple, yet ingenious technique borrowed from the world of Japanese milk bread: tangzhong.

Tangzhong, a magical concoction of flour and liquid cooked into a silky gel, is the key to unlocking challah's full potential. Like a sponge, it captures and holds onto moisture, transforming the dough into a cloud-like wonderland. The result? A loaf that rises majestically, boasting a feather-light crumb and an extended shelf life.

But the innovation doesn't stop there. Instead of relying on traditional flavourless oils, this recipe embraces the rich, nuanced character of extra-virgin olive oil. Its fruity, peppery notes dance harmoniously with the sweetness of golden raisins plumped in vibrant orange juice.

While intricate braids and majestic crowns may be the hallmark of traditional challah, this recipe by Christopher Kimball opts for simplicity without sacrificing elegance. Two graceful braids, nestled in loaf pans, emerge from the oven with a golden glow, promising days of delightful indulgence.

Remember, patience is a virtue. Allow the challah to cool completely before slicing, ensuring a perfect texture that will leave you wanting more. With this recipe, the dream of a heavenly challah, tender and long-lasting, is finally within reach.

Olive Oil Challah with Golden Raisins

Start to finish: 3½ hours (1¼ hours active), plus cooling

Servings: Makes two 1¼-pound loaves

Ingredients:

43 grams (⅓ cup), plus 607 grams (4⅔ cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

155 grams (1 cup) golden raisins

¼ cup orange juice

3 large eggs, room temperature, plus 1 large egg, for brushing

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the pans

63 grams (3 tablespoons) honey

2 teaspoons table salt

2¼ teaspoons instant yeast

Method:

In a small saucepan, whisk together 1 cup water and the 43 grams (⅓ cup) flour until smooth. Over medium, cook, whisking constantly, until it thickens (a silicone spatula drawn through the mixture leaves a trail) and bubbles slowly, 2 to 4 minutes; this is a water roux.

Scrape the mixture into a stand mixer bowl, press a sheet of plastic wrap directly against the surface and cool until barely warm, at least 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine the raisins and orange juice; bring to a simmer over medium, stirring, then remove from the heat. (Alternatively, in a small microwave-safe bowl, combine the raisins and juice; microwave on high until simmering, about 1 minute.) Cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally.

To the cooled water roux, whisk in the 3 eggs. Whisk in the oil and honey. Add the remaining 607 grams (4⅔ cups) flour, salt and yeast, then attach the bowl and dough hook to the mixer.

Mix on low until a sticky, slightly elastic dough forms, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Drain the raisins in a fine-mesh strainer, pressing on them with a spoon to remove excess liquid.

Add the raisins to the dough and mix on medium-low, scraping the bowl as needed, until the raisins are evenly distributed and the dough is tacky but not wet, about another 5 minutes.

Detach the bowl from the mixer, use the spatula to scrape the bowl and gather the dough at the center. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled (about 1½ hours).

Meanwhile, brush two 9-by-5-inch loaf pans with oil, then line each with an 8-by-14-inch piece of kitchen parchment, allowing the excess to overhang the long sides of the pan.

Lightly flour the counter and turn the dough out onto it. Using a bench scraper or chef’s knife, divide the dough in half; each piece should weigh about 650 grams (23 ounces).

Now divide each half into 3 equal pieces, for a total of 6 pieces; cover with a kitchen towel. Roll each portion back and forth against the counter to form a 12-inch rope; as you work, keep the previously formed ropes covered.

Position 3 ropes perpendicular to the counter’s edge but parallel to each other. Firmly pinch together the far ends of the ropes. Flour your fingers, then lift the right rope, cross it over the middle rope and lay it between the other 2; adjust the spacing of the ropes as you go. Now cross the left rope over the new middle rope and lay it between the 2.

Repeat the braiding until you reach the ends of the ropes. Firmly pinch together the ends. Tuck the ends under the loaf and transfer the braid to a prepared loaf pan, compacting it as needed to fit. Cover with a kitchen towel. Shape the second loaf in the same way and cover.

Let rise at room temperature until the loaves have increased by half and the dough feels puffy but slowly springs back when gently poked with a finger, 1¼ to 1½ hours.

About 45 minutes into rising, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the lower-middle position. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining egg. When the loaves have risen by 50 per cent, brush the tops with beaten eggs.

Place the pans in the oven, spaced several inches apart, and immediately reduce the temperature to 325°F. Bake until the loaves are golden brown and the centres reach about 185°F to 190°F, 45 to 50 minutes.

Transfer the pans to a wire rack and cool for 30 minutes. Using the parchment slings, lift the loaves from their pans, peel off the parchment and set them directly on the rack. Cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.