Turning tables

On a monsoon evening, under a sky filled with clouds, we longed to be outdoors yet stayed inside thanks to uncertain weather conditions. Sitting by the window and enjoying a meal seemed like a good pastime. We entered the pan-Asian restaurant CHÔ New Delhi in the Ambawatta One Complex ready for an elevated dining experience.

An elaborate table adorned with hand-painted tableware and serveware from the city-based brand Holm Story awaited us. Marigolds paired with baby’s-breath in a round vase added a touch of English elegance, while white lilies in a green vase served as a statement piece. Bowls and snack plates in Mediterranean shades of blue and yellow leaf patterns were inspired by the Italian town of Positano along the Amalfi Coast.

Co-founders of Holm Story and close friends, Arushi Agarwal, a graduate in journalism and mass communication, and Kanika Datt, a diploma holder in interior design, put together this dining experience. “We have a special plate for every meal, whether it’s a tapas-style plate for appetisers, bowls for snacks, or large breakfast plates. When the presentation is done exquisitely, food becomes all the more delectable, or at least feels so,” shares a smiling Agarwal as Datt chimes in, “It is psychological to think of a meal as becoming tasty once you have it in a decorated plate.”

Tablescaping emerged as a major trend during the pandemic, as people confined to their homes, sought to enhance their interior spaces. “The idea to start Holm Story emerged during the lockdown when celebrating anniversaries, ceremonies, and birthdays at home became a norm. As avid hosts, we enjoyed setting up tables using crockery, florals, and table pieces to create a restaurant-like environment at home, thus starting the modern minimal living brand,” Agarwal explains.

Plated like a pro

Over some lively conversations, our tapas-style plate kept getting filled with CHÔ’s Vietnamese Pickled Vegetable And Herbs Rolls. The smooth-textured rice paper wrappers were filled with pickled cabbage, carrots, creamy avocado, and crisp lettuce. The fragrant basil and mint teased our senses, showing the emphasis of Vietnamese cuisine on freshness. We had it with the classic peanut and Nuoc Cham and noticed the tartness hitting our tongue — adding a zing to an otherwise plain roll.

Their other counterpart, the Avocado Mango Yasai Rolls, was a tad sweeter for the savoury lover in us. Though resembling the replica of a sushi roll, these rolls were filled with the juiciness of diced mangoes and sliced avocado. For the mains, a hearty and crispy Panko Fried Tofu was served on Holm Story’s ceramic breakfast plate. A crust of golden brown panko bread crumbs encased the soy sauce-marinated tender tofu inside. Its neutral flavour absorbed the savoury goodness of seasonings and the nuttiness of soy sauce.

As we savour the meal, Datt mentions that all the items have been kept light so people can enjoy the meal without having to juggle heavy crockery. “These ceramic plates and bowls are lightweight, microwave and dishwasher-safe. We use soft colours that do not fade even after hundreds of washes. Moreover, they’re a nod to Indian artisans,” she shares.

Evolution of tablescaping

Early records show India’s rich legacy in table décor, from gold and silver tableware used in Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s court to ivory table decoration in the Mysore Kingdom, bronze and copperware with temple motifs used in the Vijayanagara Empire, and ornate table runners used in Rajput kingdoms. The founders of Holm Story drew inspiration from history and travelled to Uttar Pradesh, known for ceramic pottery in hubs like Khurja, Chinhat, and Nizamabad, to craft their pieces. “During the Mughal era, Babar and Akbar found clay in various parts of Uttar Pradesh and realised they could make crockery out of it. When you visit the factories from Delhi to Agra, artisans will tell you how they’ve been making such ceramics and pottery items for generations,” Agarwal adds, sharing that she found artisans from Khurja for Holm.

Story’s creations

Holm Story aims to create contemporary versions of home living items. “Today, everyone is well-travelled and exposed to global trends. Social media has become a lifestyle guide. Inspired by ideas, people seek bespoke experiences,” Agarwal shares as Datt adds, “Everything is so easily available these days to curate an experience. We want to bring such a personalised dining experience to the global Indian of today. We will soon introduce linens in our collection.”