This Goan chef takes us through the journey of Saraswat cuisine
Did you know that turmeric leaves can be preserved as used the way we use elaichi? Or that simple tips and tricks like even knowing the right moment to turn the gas off, affects the flavours of the food? We uncovered these and more secrets of the Goan Saraswat cuisine from Chef Shubhra Shankhwalker. coming from the land of sea beaches, relaxation and immensely popular cuisines, Shubhra practices the heritage cuisine of the Goan Saraswat community. As the graphic designer turned chef was in Kolkata recently to present The Gormei Table at Glenburn Penthouse, we caught up with her to know more about the cuisine, its uniqueness, and her personal culinary journey.
How would you trace the journey of Saraswat Cuisine?
The community I belong to goes back by almost 3000 years. Our ancestors were vegetarians and some point in time ran out of food. That’s when we adapted fish since we were near the coastal line. We consider fish as ‘vegetarian’. In older days we used to survive on wild boars and deer’s which are illegal today. I don’t remember us eating chicken much. When the Portuguese came in some of us went to Belgaum and that’s where mutton was picked up. So, the recipes that I have have a traceable history of 200 years. These are basically my ex mother in law, grandmother and mother’s recipes. We are very particular about seasonal and fresh ingredients.
How would you describe the Saraswat cuisine that makes it stand apart from other types of cuisines, especially what we know as Goan cuisine today?
It is a cuisine with seasonal and fresh ingredients and it keeps changing as per season. Some of them are forgotten recipes. If you have eaten Goan food, these recipes are nothing like them. These are more of home-cooked food. Fish is a very important part of the cuisine and our lives. But we also have seasonal vegetables too. And the flavours are completely different from Goan cuisine. Like for instance, my ex mother-in-law’s father used to get fish and ask her to prepare a curry. But it had to be cooked in a particular time to retain flavours. The whole idea is to get the fish from the market and cook within a few hours. Also, Goa is about coconut. We can’t do anything without coconut. Even the dessert will have coconuts.
Can you share how you got introduced to this cuisine?
I learnt this cuisine from my ex mother in law. When I got married, I didn’t even know how to clean prawns. My in law had left the responsibility of the kitchen to me. Here, they would get fresh and live ingredients and cook it immediately. So, I did not know what to do with living prawns. That’s when she informed that I had to keep them in the freezer for half an hour. That was the beginning of my cooking. She went out of her way to teach me the cuisine and it’s been a journey of two decades of learning from her. I’m so glad I started writing a diary in 2003 and there are so many recipes. Sometimes she used to tell me to concentrate on one particular ingredient to master the curry. And of course, the practice is there, since I have now been cooking for so many years. The more I cook, the better I get.
One kitchen hack that you have picked up…
Say for a fish curry I have the right recipe. But what we usually skip knowing is when to put the fish and when to turn off the gas. That is one very important part- the right time and how much to cook!
What is the fondest memory you have with your grandmother?
My grandmother used to cook a simple meal for me rice, sole curry, and just local Goan Papad. The sole curry used to be so tasty, the rice used to be perfectly cooked. Like the rice also has to soak the curry in. It’s not rice which is cooked just for the sake of it. She used to feed us with her own hands. I still remember the taste.
Some highlights from your Kolkata menu? Did you bring the ingredients from Goa?
The menu has spinny gourd, masalas are made at home, even the kokum is dried at ou farm. Mango and pineapple curry is a forgotten recipe. It has two versions of it. Yes, I brought a lot of ingredients. I’m very particular about the hing which I use. It’s a very important ingredient in the Saraswat cuisine so I carry that. I carry my pickled masala and garam masala which have traditional recipes and I make them at home.
How has your experience been in Kolkata?
I have been to Kolkata before but this is my first pop-up in the city. I was very excited for our Bajaar shopping experience. I saw a few fish which are available back home as well. I saw the State fish of Goa, Shevtto or Striped Grey Mullet.
Can you share a quick recipe with us?
I would like to tell about the Patoleyo which is a dessert. It’s basically turmeric leaves which we get in the rains. I also save the patoleyo leaves for the whole year and use it as a substitute for elaichi. We put a pinch of salt to rice flour. Add water to the batter. We spread this batter on the turmeric leaves. The filling is grated coconut, organic jaggery and I also put finely chopped cashews. This is the filling layer on the turmeric leaf. After this I close it and steam it for 20 minutes. You wait for it to cool down. Remove the turmeric leaves and then eat it.
How would you reflect on your culinary journey?
I honestly never expected to be where I am today. I passed out of Goa College of Fine Arts and am professionally a graphic designer. I thought that is what I am going to do for the rest of my life. I got pulled into food. Frankly, I don’t know where my journey is heading. But I am blessed for the amount of things I have learnt today. I always say, our ancestors had a lot of knowledge about food but they didn’t know it was knowledge. But today, we know the importance of that knowledge. Also, I would like to share my food with people because it’s an amazing cuisine. I believe if you have an opportunity to learn something from your grandparents you should learn it because they have mastered the art of cooking.