How to pick the best Hilsa this season

There are fish, and then there’s ilish—the one that inspires poetry, sparks dinner table debates, and turns grocery shopping into a competitive sport. As monsoon clouds gather, the prized Hilsa makes its upstream journey from the sea into the Hooghly and Padma rivers, marking the beginning of a season that’s sacred in Bengali households. But finding the perfect catch? That’s part instinct, part tradition, and a lot of know-how. If you’re eyeing a glistening catch at your local fish market, remember—hilsa buying is a ritual, not just a transaction. It’s how generations have marked the monsoon. So sharpen your skills, carry that baajar er tholi, and channel your inner food sleuth. The Queen of Fish waits for no one. Here are four tried-and-tested tips to help you choose the best hilsa this season:

Hilsa season is here—Here’s how to buy the perfect one

Weight matters, but not too much

The sweet spot for hilsa lovers is between 800g and 1.2kg. Anything less may feel unsatisfying on the plate, while anything above may seem fleshy but lacks that signature oily tenderness. Large fish, especially above 1.5kg, can sometimes taste dry or rubbery unless cooked with care.

Shiny skin and firm flesh are your clues

When picking a fresh hilsa, look for a bright silver sheen and tight, unblemished scales. The body should feel firm to the touch and curve slightly in the shape of a crescent. If it feels too soft, that’s a red flag—it might’ve been sitting around too long. Trust your fingers, and don’t be shy about poking gently.

Sniff the freshness

Hilsa has a distinct oceanic smell—rich but clean. If you catch a sour or stale whiff, walk away. True connoisseurs can even tell if it’s from the Padma or the Hooghly by scent alone. For those less trained, go with your gut: if it smells off, it probably is.

Belly check: The ultimate test

Here’s a secret known to many a Bengali fish-lover—gently press the belly. A full, oily belly means a richer, tastier fish. If it feels hollow or too flat, it might not give you the iconic ilish flavour that makes this fish worth its price.

Know the source and timing

Padma hilsa from Bangladesh is considered the gold standard — more flavourful and fattier than its Hooghly counterpart. West Bengal’s prime hilsa season kicks off around June-July when the fish travel upstream to spawn. Hilsa from Namkhana, Kakdwip, and Frasergunj often arrive early, so keep an eye on the market buzz.