Back in time: Cakes and bakes in Kolkata go a long way, even before Independence

For a city like Kolkata, where the aroma of freshly baked goods mingles with history, its iconic bakeries are more than just culinary stops. They are woven into the city’s cultural fabric, offering generations of residents not just cakes and bread, but memories and traditions. Walking through these bakeries is like tracing Kolkata’s evolution, each telling its story of resilience and reinvention.

Preserving a legacy

In the heart of the city, Nahoum & Sons has stood since 1902 as a testament to the enduring charm of Kolkata’s Jewish heritage. Tucked away in New Market, this quaint shop, which was started by a Baghdadi Jew, with its teakwood shelves and old-world aura, continues to enchant us with its rich fruit cakes, marzipan, and lemon tarts. During Christmas, the bakery becomes a hub of activity, with Kolkatans lining up for their yearly dose of yuletide spirit. For many, it’s a tradition to visit Nahoum’s before the festivities truly begin.

Another heritage spot, The Lalit Great Eastern Bakery, originally founded in the 19th century, has catered to generations of Kolkatans with its signature fruit cakes and delicate Belgian pastries. It’s not just the food that draws people—it’s the sense of history that lingers in the air. During festive seasons like Christmas and Easter, the bakery buzzes with activity, offering special hampers and treats that blend tradition with innovation. “We work to keep our legacy alive while creating new experiences for guests,” says the team behind the bakery.

Red vans and tiffin tales

Barua Bakery in Lenin Sarani has been a cornerstone of Kolkata’s baking tradition for 96 years. Once a staple in every household, their breads and tiffin cakes were delivered across the city in iconic red vans—a nostalgic sight now fading away. Despite the passage of time, the bakery remains steadfast in its methods. “We still use bhattis for baking our cakes,” says Sourav Barua, the third-generation custodian of this legacy. “My grandfather began this from scratch after moving from Chittagong with little more than his baking experience.”

Meanwhile, over in Bow Barracks, JN Barua Bakery had carved a niche for itself with its iconic Chanar cake (chhena cake), a Christmas speciality available in aluminium foil boxes at pocket-friendly prices. Known for its creamy texture, this dessert has become synonymous with the festive season for Kolkatans. Speaking of staples, Kolkata’s love for cakes has undergone a significant transformation. The ’80s and ’90s were dominated by the likes of Farinni, whose Double Bite range was a house-hold favourite before it disappeared from the shelves. Today, dry cakes are a scarce sight as French patisseries dominate the scene, offering indulgent opera cakes, profiteroles, mousses and New York cheesecakes.

Icons of everyday life

Speaking of nostalgia, New Howrah Bakery’s Bapuji cake has been a steadfast companion for those who are constantly on the move. A simple snack cake, it reflects the practicality and warmth of Kolkata’s working-class ethos. It’s for people who are always on the go. No frills, but just the sugar rush they need. At any roadside tea stall in Kolkata, you’ll rarely find a glass jar fully stocked with Bapuji cakes— they’re always flying off the shelves.

Balancing heritage and modernity

Flurys, the legendary tearoom on Park Street, is a name synonymous with Kolkata. Established in 1927 by J Flury and his wife, it quickly became a favourite for the affluent British and Indian clientele of Kolkata. But in 1965, the iconic tea room entered a new chapter. Jit Paul, co-founder of Apeejay Surrendra Group, encountered Joseph Flury during a casual morning stroll. Their conversation that day led to a deal that changed Flurys’ ownership, bringing it under the stewardship of the Apeejay Surrendra Group. From there, it has evolved from a quaint café into a bustling chain with outlets across the city. While places like these are synonymous with grandeur, they also symbolise evolution. Flurys is on the verge of hitting a century with its number of outlets, bringing its famed cream rolls, rum balls, and cakes to a wider audience. “Quality and service are our main priorities. Our team strives to ensure every guest is satisfied,” shares the team.

Equally cherished is Saldanha Bakery, a family-run gem started in 1930 by Ignatius and Ubelina Saldanha. Debra Saldanha, a third-generation proprietor recalls, “Our coconut macaroons and chicken patties are timeless, but the younger generation is drawn to opera cakes and profiteroles.” During Christmas, their walnut and British tea time cakes are crowd favourites.

A slice of history

Stepping into these bakeries is stepping back in time. They remind us of a time when the city valued simplicity—a loaf of bread, a slice of cake, or a bite of nostalgia. As new bakeries and patisseries dot the city, these establishments hold their ground with an authenticity that’s hard to replicate. Walking into these bakeries, you’re greeted with more than just delicious aromas; you’re met with memories and stories that span generations. So whether you’re a resident or a curious traveller, a visit to these bakeries is more than a treat—it’s a journey through the heart of Kolkata, one slice at a time.