Vacheron Constantin launches the first fully gem-set model for the Overseas 35 mm self-winding watches

The new Overseas Self-Winding 35 mm High Jewellery watch is adorned with a total of 1,430 diamonds (12.58 cts) and combines two cuts: brilliant and baguette. The Maltese cross motif on the bezel – a signature of the Overseas collection, inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s emblem – is highlighted by the radiance of 60 invisibly set baguette-cut diamonds (~ 2.28 cts). Invisible setting is particularly challenging for the gem-setter as it creates a seamlessly gem-covered surface on which the stones appear to float above the gold surface with no visible means of support. First, the gem-setter creates a framework of gold rails, only 0.2 mm to 0.4 mm thick, which forms a secure grid structure that remains hidden once the gemstones are slotted into it. After creating the frame, the artisan must cut a tiny V-shaped groove along both sides of each diamond, to match the position and dimensions of the rails with a tolerance of only 0.02 millimetres, thus ensuring that the stones sit flush, with no gaps, overlaps or visible metal. This setting technique is so meticulous that it can take several hours for just one stone.

Two new pieces in 18K white gold and 18K 5N pink gold are fully set with 1,430 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds

The construction

Introduced to the Overseas collection in 2023, the 35 mm diameter case is designed not only to correspond with a modern aesthetic, but also to be suitable for any situation and comfortably worn by everyone regardless of wrist size. Its versatility is underlined by the easy interchangeability of its diamond-set gold bracelet and two straps that are delivered with the watch: one in white rubber and one in shiny alligator leather. Adding a vivid splash of colour to the otherwise monochrome palette of the watch, the white gold model comes with a brilliant blue alligator-skin strap, while the pink gold model is delivered with a fuchsia-coloured alligator-skin strap. Each is secured with an 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle to match the case metal; set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds (~0.33 ct), the buckle may also be interchanged to fit another strap of the owner’s choice. As with all Overseas models, the owner needs no tool to easily and quickly change the bracelet, straps or buckle at will. Echoing the Maltese Cross motif found on the bezel the bracelets are outfitted with the easy-fit system inherent to the Overseas collection since 2016, a hidden micro-adjustment that provides the wearer with flawless comfort.

The movement

Calibre 1088/1 sets the pace for the Overseas self-winding high jewellery, driving the hours, minutes, central seconds and date in an aperture. The central seconds is also outfitted with a stop-seconds function, ensuring to-the-second accuracy when setting the time. The 144-component automatic movement operates at a frequency of 4Hz and is equipped with a 40-hourpower reserve. Visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back, the movement is very finely finished and features visible Côtes de Genève decoration and bevelled bridges, as well as the Overseas collection’s emblematic 22K gold rotor adorned with a compass rose.

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