The art and science of perfume-making: Capturing nature’s fragrance from fresh flowers

Perfume-making from flowers is a centuries-old craft, blending traditional methods with modern science to capture the delicate and enchanting aromas found in nature.

The process begins with the careful selection and harvesting of flowers, a step that requires expertise and precision. Flowers like rose, jasmine, lavender, and ylang-ylang are often chosen for their distinctive fragrances. The timing of the harvest is crucial; flowers are typically picked in the early morning when their scent is at its peak. The freshness and quality of the flowers play a significant role in the final product, as even slight bruising can alter the fragrance.

Once harvested, the next step is extracting the aromatic compounds from the flowers. There are several methods used to accomplish this, each chosen based on the type of flower and the desired fragrance profile. Steam distillation is one of the most traditional techniques. It involves placing the flowers in a still and passing steam through them. The steam causes the plant’s essential oils to evaporate. These vapours are then condensed back into a liquid form, where the essential oil separates from the water. This method works well for flowers like lavender, as it preserves their natural aroma without the need for chemicals.

For more delicate flowers such as jasmine, solvent extraction is often preferred. The flowers are immersed in a solvent like hexane, which dissolves the aromatic compounds. When the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a waxy substance known as ‘concrete’. This concrete is then processed with alcohol to obtain an ‘absolute’, a concentrated form of the flower’s fragrance. The absolute captures the essence of the flower in a way that distillation cannot, making it a popular choice for luxury perfumes.

Another less common but historically significant method is enfleurage. This ancient technique involves layering fresh flowers onto sheets of fat, which absorb the flowers' essential oils. The process is repeated with new flowers until the fat becomes saturated with the fragrance. The scented fat is then treated with alcohol to release the oils. Although this method is labour-intensive and time-consuming, it yields a pure and delicate scent that is difficult to replicate with modern techniques.

After extraction, the essential oils are blended with other aromatic ingredients to create a balanced and harmonious perfume. This stage requires a perfumer’s skill and creativity, as different notes—floral, woody, spicy—are combined to craft a unique scent. The blend is then aged for several months, allowing the various elements to meld together and develop a more complex aroma. Finally, the perfume is diluted with alcohol, filtered for clarity, and carefully bottled, preserving the essence of the flowers and bringing a touch of nature's beauty to everyday life.