Therapeutic vs cosmetic sunscreen: What’s the real difference, and which one do you need?

In a world obsessed with SPF, your sunscreen is no longer just about blocking sunburn. It’s a powerhouse product, doubling as skincare, makeup, and even a prescription treatment. But there’s one crucial detail most people gloss over: the difference between therapeutic and cosmetic sunscreens. Whether you're slathering it on at the beach or layering it under foundation, knowing what kind of SPF you're using can make or break your skincare routine. Here’s what sets the two apart—and how to decide which one your skin truly needs.

What exactly is therapeutic sunscreen?

Think of therapeutic sunscreens as dermatologist-approved bodyguards. These are medicinal formulations often prescribed or recommended for those with skin conditions like melasma, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or photosensitivity disorders. They’re usually backed by clinical research and regulated as over-the-counter (OTC) drugs in many countries.

• High UV protection

• Often broad-spectrum SPF 50+

• May include anti-inflammatory, antioxidant or pigment-reducing ingredients

• Fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, allergy-tested

• Common examples: Photostable mineral-based sunscreens, or prescription-only SPF creams with ingredients like zinc oxide, niacinamide, or tretinoin-compatible bases.

Cosmetic sunscreens are more than just a pretty face

Cosmetic sunscreens are your everyday multitaskers—they combine SPF with moisturisers, foundations, primers, and even glow-boosting serums. Their main appeal? Aesthetic elegance. They’re lightweight, often tinted, and blend effortlessly into the skin—perfect for those who hate the greasy, chalky residue some therapeutic SPFs leave behind.

• Lower SPF (often 15–30)

• Lightweight and cosmetically elegant

• May contain added skincare benefits—think hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, or shimmer

• Designed more for daily wear than medical protection

When to use what

• Use therapeutic sunscreens if: you have a history of sun allergies, pigmentation issues, or are on photosensitising medications. Also ideal post-procedures like laser, microneedling, or chemical peels.

• Use cosmetic sunscreens if: your skin is healthy and you want basic UV protection with a flawless finish. Ideal for indoor days or when you want SPF with skin tint or glow.

• Bonus tip: Layering both isn’t a crime. Use therapeutic SPF first, let it absorb, then apply your cosmetic sunscreen or SPF makeup for extra coverage.

Price tags don’t tell the full story

Just because a sunscreen is expensive doesn’t mean it’s better. Some of the best therapeutic sunscreens are pharmacy finds. Cosmetic ones, on the other hand, can charge a premium for packaging, scent, and added skincare fluff. Function over flash—especially if you’re treating a skin condition. Think of sunscreen as a shield, not a suggestion. Choosing between therapeutic and cosmetic isn’t about luxury—it’s about knowing what your skin needs and when.