How does early sleep help your skin? Dermatologist breaks down the science

Essentially, what we idealise as healthy skin is skin that’s well-hydrated. At any age, whether you’re 15 or 50, hydration is the key factor that defines the look of healthy skin. When we talk about visible signs of photo ageing, we are referring to wrinkles, fine lines, deep lines, and pigmentation. Skin that shows fewer of these signs is generally perceived as healthier, meaning it has a more even tone and appears more hydrated.

Sleep is a fundamental part of skin health. When you sleep earlier, you support your body’s natural production of melatonin, the hormone secreted roughly between 9.30 pm and 7.30 am, with a peak between 2 and 4 am. So, if you’re asleep by 10 pm, you’re giving your body the best chance to benefit from this natural cycle.

Along with that, keep your skincare simple but consistent. Use a gentle cleanser with a pH close to that of your skin, apply a good moisturiser at least twice a day, and most importantly, never skip sunscreen before stepping out. These days, the UV index in India is quite high. So, if you’re stepping out without sunscreen, you are putting your skin at real risk. What people need to understand is that sunscreen isn’t just about avoiding tanning; it’s a crucial defense against photo ageing and photodamage.

A practical approach is to apply sunscreen before stepping out and reapply every three to four hours if you’re outdoors for long periods. If you spend most of your day in front of screens, reapply once around lunchtime, as blue light can contribute to pigmentation. However, if you’re mostly indoors with minimal screen exposure, a single morning application is sufficient.

About 10 years ago, I used to say that the right time to start thinking about anti-ageing care was in your 30s. But today, I see signs of ageing in people in their late 20s. If you just slept better and cut down on sugar, you’d age much slower. The excess sugar in our diets causes a process called glycation. It is basically sugar molecules binding to proteins in your skin and other tissues, forming compounds known as Advanced Glycation End Products, or AGEs — quite literally, they make you ‘age.’ These AGEs break down collagen, leading to dullness, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. And with the kind of consumer culture we live in, it’s no surprise that we’re overexposed to sugar. Add to that stress and lack of sleep, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for accelerated ageing. So today, I’d say it’s wise to start preventive skincare early, around 26 or 27.

From your mid to late 20s, start by introducing retinol on alternate nights, as it’s one of the best ingredients for preventing early signs of ageing. Be consistent with your moisturiser, and make sure it contains ceramides. Both ceramides and hyaluronic acid are amazing molecules that help maintain hydration and strengthen the skin barrier.

For your night routine, include retinol and peptides; these support collagen production and repair. So, in your late 20s, a solid home routine built around these basics—retinol, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and peptides—should work well to maintain skin health and delay visible ageing.

When it comes to in-clinic anti-ageing treatments, I recommend starting in your early 30s, as that’s when procedures that actively stimulate collagen production can make a noticeable difference. Some of the best options include micro needling or micro needling radiofrequency (MNRF), which are excellent for boosting collagen and improving skin texture.

Hydration boosters are another great choice as these injectable hyaluronic acid treatments deeply hydrate the skin, restoring moisture and elasticity without adding volume like fillers do. For example, Profhilo is a regenerative bio collagen stimulator made of hyaluronic acid which, when injected into the deeper layers of the skin, spreads evenly to hydrate from within and enhance collagen production. Doing this once every six months can deliver impressive results. Additionally, laser toning works well for tackling pigmentation issues, while chemical peels offer gentle exfoliation and overall skin rejuvenation.

When it comes to deciding between treatments like micro needling and chemical peels, it depends on the patient’s skin concerns and condition. For example, if someone comes in with acne scars, especially in their late teens or early 20s, I wouldn’t wait until they turn 30 to start micro needling. Scar treatment should begin as early as possible, because your 20s are when your skin naturally produces the most collagen. Early intervention helps fill in those scars more effectively.

On the other hand, if someone in their 30s comes in saying they’ve started noticing fine lines, dryness, or a loss of elasticity, that’s a different story. The degree of fine lines often reflects the level of hydration in the skin. For such cases, I start with hydration boosters to restore moisture and elasticity.

Once the skin is better hydrated, we move to micro needling radiofrequency (MNRF)—typically once every 4 to 6 weeks—to stimulate collagen production and improve firmness. After completing about 6 to 8 sessions, I always reassure patients that they don’t need to do this forever. Once that initial collagen boost is achieved, they can switch back to a strong skincare maintenance routine at home.

For long-term maintenance, doing one MNRF session every 3 to 4 months is ideal to keep up with natural ageing. And in between, hydration boosters can be added occasionally to maintain that dewy, healthy glow.

This behaviour is more common in the Western world, where overfilling has become a trend. In the Indian context, however, our aesthetic goals are quite different. I perform many filler procedures, but the first step is always to assess whether the patient truly needs them, and if not, to consider whether a non-invasive alternative might be a better option.

For instance, instead of fillers, some patients are better suited for HIFU (High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound), a technology that uses ultrasound and radiofrequency to heat the SMAS layer (the sub muscular-aponeurotic layer) of the skin. This helps lift and tighten the tissues while melting small amounts of fat. HIFU works beautifully for people who are heavy in the lower face as it tones, defines the jawline, and gives a more sculpted look.

So, it’s really about understanding face shape and proportion. If someone already has fullness in the lower face, adding fillers there would only make them look puffier. Instead, we lift and sculpt strategically, perhaps restoring volume in the upper face, where fat naturally starts to descend with age, while contouring the lower face to sharpen the jawline.

Most women, as they age, become bottom-heavy; the facial fat that once supported the cheeks starts to drop. This creates hollowing under the eyes (which can start even in the late 20s) and jowling along the jawline by the 40s. Essentially, the youthful V-shaped face slowly turns into a U-shape. The goal, therefore, is to refill the upper face and use HIFU to tighten and slim the lower face, restoring that balanced V shape.

Now, coming back to the idea of ‘filler fatigue’, in India, overfilling is far less common. It’s the dermatologist’s or aesthetic physician’s responsibility to guide the patient and know when to stop. Some people tend to ask for more and more—it can become addictive—and that’s where professional judgment is crucial.

In extreme cases, this pattern can be linked to Body Dysmorphic Disorder (BDD), where a person is never satisfied with their appearance and keeps seeking unnecessary procedures.

In the Indian aesthetic approach, the goal is always natural rejuvenation—to look fresher, younger, and more rested, not ‘done.’ You should walk out of a clinic looking like yourself, only better—so that people say, “You look so fresh and well-rested,” not, “What did you do to your face?” That’s the essence of good aesthetic work: you still look like you, just the best version of yourself.

When it comes to collagen, you can support it in two main ways, either through your diet or with supplements. From a dietary perspective, there are plenty of good natural sources, like fish, bone broth, chicken, and eggs, along with foods rich in vitamin C, zinc, and magnesium, all of which help your body produce collagen naturally.

Now, for those who aren’t consistent with their diet or want an extra boost, collagen powders are absolutely fine to take. But it’s important to understand bioavailability, that is how well your body can absorb and use the collagen. That’s why I always recommend hydrolysed collagen powders, as they are easier for the body to absorb.

When choosing a supplement, opt for marine collagen rather than bovine, since marine sources tend to have better absorption. I also prefer powder forms that can be mixed with water  as most liquid collagens have added sugars, and tablets usually contain too little collagen (about 2.5 grams). Ideally, you should aim for 5 to 5.5 grams per day for it to be effective. Mix the powder in water, drink it like a juice, and ideally have it right after your morning workout. That’s when your body absorbs it best.

I don’t recommend collagen gummies as most are loaded with sugar, and honestly, adults don’t need to be coaxed into taking supplements with candy. While there are sugar-free gummies available, I think they should be reserved for people who absolutely can’t tolerate pills. That said, most of your collagen needs can be met through a balanced diet. Supplements are for people who struggle with regular meals; those living alone, busy professionals, or mothers who don’t have time to cook for themselves.

Beyond collagen, there are a few other supplements that become important, especially for men and women in their late 30s and 40s. Magnesium, vitamin D, and zinc — these three are essential for overall health, energy, and skin repair. Many women are also iron-deficient, so if you’re anaemic, supplementing with iron is important as well.

There are also some great anti-ageing nutrients worth considering, such as Resveratrol – a powerful antioxidant and anti-ageing molecule (interestingly, it’s the main antioxidant found in red wine), Ubiquinone (CoQ10) – helps improve energy at the cellular level, and Polyphenols and flavonoids – plant compounds that fight oxidative stress and support healthy skin.

Keep your morning skincare simple and effective. Start with a gentle cleanser, follow with a moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, or both for hydration, and never skip sunscreen to protect against UV damage. A serum can be added if you like, but it’s not essential. If you have oily skin, choose gel, cream-gel, or water-based formulas for your moisturiser and sunscreen; if your skin is dry, go for creamier textures for extra hydration. In the evening, cleanse your face again and reapply moisturiser to keep your skin hydrated.

In your 20s, focus on maintaining healthy, bright skin with actives like glycolic acid, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and vitamin C, and consider adding peptides to your night cream for early anti-aging care. In your 30s, start using retinol three nights a week and alternate it with an anti-pigmentation serum suited to your concerns, such as kojic, azelaic, or tranexamic acid. Choose retinols with peptides and ceramides for extra hydration and repair, and for an advanced boost, add a copper peptide serum to your routine.