Taste of tradition

Overlooking the railway tracks and the 200-year-old landmark, St Andrew’s Church, Chilli Malli is nestled in the heart of the city, with the urban bustle creating a vibrant backdrop. Stepping inside, the noise fades into a comforting, familiar hum, immersing diners in a true South Indian culinary experience. With wooden fixtures, warm lighting, and traditional décor elements, the interiors evoke a dash of old-world Chettinad charm, This restaurant is just the place for those seeking the rich flavours and warmth of Tamil Nadu’s cuisine.

As we settled into our seats, the aroma of spices wafted through the air, hinting at the feast to come. The menu boasts an impressive array of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. “The restaurant’s offerings are deeply influenced by the owner’s family roots in Madurai, with some recipes passed down through generations and crafted with love,” says executive chef P Regansuresh.

Comforting traditional staples were served first. The first bites of soft kalakki and fluffy paniyaram set the tone for what’s to come next. Slowly, the plate became a tapestry of delectable foods.

The Chilli Malli Prawn 65 stands out from everything else, featuring succulent prawns marinated in a spicy batter that delivers a delightful crunch. The Nethili fish fry offers a crispy, golden exterior with tender fish inside, showcasing the coastal influences in Tamil cuisine.

Next comes the Mutton sukka, a dish that exemplifies the perfect balance of spices. The soft, tender pieces of mutton soak in a rich, flavourful gravy, allowing the essence of the meat to shine through. This balance of spices is a hallmark of Chef Regansuresh’s approach, “It’s all about experience and teamwork,” he explains, drawing on years of practice and a deep understanding of flavour profiles. Sourcing locally, the restaurant uses high-quality, homemade organic masalas and spices, ensuring each dish is crafted with the freshest, most authentic ingredients.

Moving on, we had Mutton kola urundai, which was soft and mildly flavoured; we found pairing it with the gravy of the Sukka absolutely delightful.

The Seeraga samba mutton biriyani is a feast for the senses. Fragrant and flavourful, with perfectly cooked rice that cradles tender mutton pieces, the biriyani is an essential part of your dining experience, as always. Pair it with any of the sides, and you have a meal that feels like a celebration. Dining at Chilli Malli feels akin to a feast at home, where each dish is crafted with care and love. It’s an invitation to slow down, savour the flavours, and relish the warmth of Tamil Nadu’s culinary traditions, as the city hums gently outside. As the seasons change, the menu evolves, with new dishes added every three months, ensuring there’s always something to look forward to on each visit.

Meal for two: Rs 1,000 ++.

From 12 pm to 11 pm.

At Egmore.

(Written by Shivani Illakiya)

shivani.p.t.illakiya@gmail.com