Why do Bengali brides wear Shakha Pola bangles? The secrets behind these sacred ornaments

The Shakha Pola bangles have been an integral part of Bengali Hindu marriages for centuries, as they represent marriage bliss, purity, fertility, and protection. These ornaments are made of white conch shells and red coral. Married women of Bengal wear them both in India and in Bangladesh. The bangles are offered to the brides by their elders or in-laws before the marriage rituals, and they are then blessed by the priest.

Shakha Pola bangles: From sacred shells to symbolic artistry

The history of Shakha Pola bangles has a lot of connections with Bengal’s old association with nature, religion, and coastal areas. The white conch shell, known as Shakha, is historically associated with Lord Vishnu and stands for purity and cosmic order. It produces sound, which is considered to ward off evil powers. Pola is a red coral that is usually associated with the fertility and life force of Goddess Durga and Shakti.

The ancient traditions of Hinduism have acknowledged jewellery to be a symbol of identity, protection, and blessing. Although the concept of Shakha Pola is not mentioned in the Vedas, the significance of ornaments in women’s rites has been described there. The archaeological evidence proves the use of conch shells in the communities of Bengal as tools, ornaments, and articles of worship before other practices came into existence.

Bengal’s Shankhari artisans preserve a centuries-old craft

The art of making Shakha was practised by the Shankhari community whose artisans designed intricate patterns out of conch shells. Areas like Murshidabad, Cuttack, and Kolkata have been famous for shell carvers. These people used special instruments to make floral, geometrical, and mythical patterns.

The manufacturing process involves choosing shells, cutting them into round shapes, carving, polishing, and whitening them. Carving is done with saws, chisels, grindstones, hand drills, and sandpaper to give bangles a smooth finish.

Traditional coral Pola was sourced through maritime trade routes connecting Bengal with South and Southeast Asia, the Persian Gulf, and other regions. Today, glass, resin, and synthetic materials are often used as coral becomes scarce.

Colonial changes transformed the traditional ornament

Industrial goods and jewellery during the colonial era have had an impact on the Shakha artefacts. The artisans belonging to the Shankhari community were facing decreased demand due to the competition from machine products. To counteract the problem, the artisans started including gold, silver, and enamelling.

Lotus patterns on Shakha Pola bangles are indicative of the culture and heritage of Bengal. Lotus is a symbol of purity, prosperity, spiritual development, and triumph over adversity. Jasmine patterns on these bangles signify love, beauty, femininity, and marital bliss. The connection of Jasmine with the Hindu god of love, Kama, also contributes to this aspect.

Swastika is one of the lucky symbols in India, which signifies luck and success. It comes from the two words of Sanskrit: 'su,' meaning good, and 'asti,' meaning to prevail. It has significance for Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism.

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