We all love nature; we all love the wilderness; and we love talking about roughing it out. But, many a time, we don’t set out on that wild trail because of that very same reason — it’s too wild for us and we are not able to rough it out as much as we thought we could. If you’re looking to experience the wild and yet be pampered by unmatched luxury, pack your bags and head to Udaipur.
Nestled in the outskirts of Udaipur, a 20-minute drive from the airport, is Chunda Shikar Oudi, an erstwhile hunting lodge of the royals, now a luxury retreat surrounded by 150 hectares of scenic woodland overlooking a serene lake. Here, once upon a time, you shot with rifles and muzzle-loaders, now you shoot with your cameras. And you are sure to be kept busy as the canvas of nature that presents itself, is irresistible, and if you’re lucky, you just might spot that elusive leopard.
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We were invited into the resort with a traditional Rajasthani welcome accompanied by the dhol. Two jeeps stood sentinel and our excitement at what lay in store set our pulses racing. The first person we met there, handlebar moustache and all, was Chandravijay Singh Hada, a naturalist, artist and wildlife photographer, who masquerades as the GM of Chunda Shikar Oudi and who is responsible for the upkeep of the forest, and the resort in general. He invites us inside with a welcome drink and we take in the beauty of the green surrounding us from the luxurious balcony overlooking the expanse of a beautiful lake, alive with birds, and fish literally jumping out of the water in streaks of silver.
A quick tea and refreshments later, we couldn’t wait to get into those jeeps and head out for an evening safari. As we took the dirt track into the forest, Hada informs us about the effort taken to reforest the area: “We planted many dry deciduous and sherbet trees that are native and specific to the area; we also planted several fruiting trees and we regularly monitor their growth. Certain diverse tree species were also brought in from the forest nursery to enhance the ecosystem’s resilience and support the large variety of birds and wildlife. We ensure proper planting techniques, correct spacing, and regularly care for the planted trees, protecting them from pests. We also develop grasslands but restrict domesticated animals from grazing on the small saplings and shrubs. We, however, allow wild animals to enter, and this has helped the forest grow.” All around the property is a butterfly garden with nectar plants and grass that feeds them. And, thus the forest begins!
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Our first sighting was a Neelgai, chewing away at the cud and quite happy to be photographed. Several clicks and mud tracks later, we spotted the tracks of a leopard. Our excitement soared and we made tracks to catch sight of all the wildlife we could. We spotted owls, babblers, barbets, bee-eaters, cuckoos, bulbuls, peafowl, drongos, flycatchers, warblers, parakeets, munias, partridges, and woodpeckers, but we wanted to see the leopard. What we saw instead was the ubiquitous lapwing, that kept following us, sometimes ahead and sometimes behind, but all the time calling out with its loud “did-he-do-it” calls. It is said that their loud alarm calls are indicators of human or animal movement. We’re not sure if the bird was warning us of a leopard nearby, or warning the cat of our arrival, but the feline remained elusive.
A surprise awaited us at the next sharp bend on the road as we reached a flat top of a hill and were presented with a most exciting outdoor tea spot complete with mini sandwiches and fresh brews. We made our way back in the dark and used high-powered flashlights to catch a few hares that darted past and more owls that seemed to love the night and the darkness, and truly so, for it is in the dark with all the lights switched off, that the forest lit up and came alive with fireflies. It was a sight to behold.
Back in the luxury of the resort, we took a short break before we were ushered down a gentle trail to a lake-side, candle-lit dinner experience. It was a treat of local dishes, including some pit-barbecued chicken that was exquisitely flavoured.
At dinner, we were introduced to the architect behind this piece of paradise, Veeram Dev Singh Krishnawat. A distinguished member of the royal family of Mewar, he possesses a deep-rooted love for nature and wildlife. We discovered that he is a national-level polo player and a keen marksman and we just had to ask him if this was a passion project. To which he said, “I believe that the most meaningful and impactful ventures stem from a deep connection to one’s passions and values. In this case, my love for nature, wildlife conservation, and providing exceptional hospitality converged to create a unique and purpose-driven endeavour. We wanted to offer guests a unique experience to connect with nature. We wanted to offer them a space that is opulent and luxurious, yet equally peaceful and magical, while at the same time contributing to the protection and preservation of local ecosystems and wildlife.”
Veeram’s family were rulers and benefactors of this region. Throwing light on the legacy he shares with this place, he says, “Chunda Shikar Oudi, along with the jungles, common lands and surrounding villages covering over 150 hectares, was the private hunting lodge for the jagirdars of Bathera. Due to deforestation, the area had lost its charm and faced a consequential loss of its natural habitats. However, the legacy and conservation of the land was first taken up by the Batheras and is now being taken forward by the Chunda Group.”
Adding further about the structure, he says, “The original two-storey villa is a heritage structure, which was used as the hunting bastion by the British and erstwhile royalty. The new eight-bedroom structure was constructed by the Bathera family a few years back, and the Chunda group worked on the interiors and upgraded the property to what stands today as Chunda Shikar Oudi.” The mood board for the interiors of the place can be best described as fantastic forest and quiet luxury.
The contemporary amenities, which include ample terraces, an outdoor Jacuzzi, fireplace and private plunge pool, are well thought out allowing you to experience nature while still in the lap of luxury. Interestingly, Veeram did not hire an architect. “Each area in the property is designed to remind you of nature, where muted tones take inspiration from the natural surroundings. Right from the custom-made furniture and artwork, to the upholstery, are all inspired by the surrounding flowers, birds, animals and trees. We did not hire an architect. It was my vision which has been beautifully executed by our team.”
The morning after was rather exciting for me personally as I skipped the safari and chose to go angling instead. A welcome surprise was Veeram, a keen angler himself, who chose to join me and we set out to catch some fish that are farmed in the lake. You learn a lot about life when you go fishing and the biggest learning is patience. You also learn a lot about the company you keep and I learnt a lot about Veeram — a true nature and adventure lover who is ready to throw his lot with mother earth before anything else. Our efforts caught us three large fish that added to an exquisite locavore Mewari thali lunch, consisting Makki ki Raab — soup; Macchi ke sule (the fish we caught); Dahi ke kabab; Govind gatta Kan (white corn) ki sabji; Dum Arbi Mewari dal; Saffron rice; Macchi ka kheema (same fish); Lal Maas Khajiya; Papad Lasun Lal Mirchi ki chutney; Hare ghaans ki roti; Thotri ; Phulka and Phirni. All this was a bit too much and we chose tasting portions and showed partiality only to the fish.
Later that evening, it was time for yet another attempt to spot the leopard and we headed off into the night. The forest somehow seemed thicker and the leopard remained hidden. The getaway boasts more than 30 different species of trees with the most prominent being boswellia serrata, sterculia uresns, lannea coromadelica, prosopis cinereria, anogeissus serecea, pterocarpus, butea monosperma and ficus. The forest also has many plant species of medicinal importance like asthama bel, brahmi, gugal, van tulsi, rakt madar, nirgundi etc.
We were then ushered through the darkness of the forest to dinner at a clearing tastefully lit by low-hanging lamps that complemented the untamed forest without disturbing it. It was the perfect evening for a nature and wildlife enthusiast, complete with drinks and a full-blown barbecue (we were informed that there was no wildlife on the menu).
In the morning, I indulged myself to a lazy breakfast-in-bed routine and lounged on the balcony that overlooked the lake, as I took in nature at its pristine best. Later, we headed out into the village for an experience of the local life. We received a rousing welcome into the homes of the villagers, which prompted us to ask Veeram if he has included the neighbouring villages in his mission. “Integrating the nearby village community into our vision of creating this space was a fundamental aspect of our project,” he said.
“One of our many goals is to create a symbiotic relationship, which should benefit not only our guests but also the local residents. To achieve this, we have provided employment opportunities to the villagers, offering jobs in various aspects of the hotel operation, from hospitality to conservation. Additionally, we engage with the community to promote sustainable practices and educate them on aspects such as waste management, water conservation, afforestation efforts, which benefit both the environment and the villagers.
Furthermore, we have established cultural exchanges that allow our guests to learn about and interact with the local people, understand their culture and traditions, fostering mutual understanding and respect.” It was then time to leave and we left Chunda Shikar Oudi completely rejuvenated and all the wiser about many things Udaipur. The leopard however, remained elusive.
Email:edison @newindianexpress.com
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