History is a vital motivating factor for many travellers to set out on their expeditions. With multiple cultures spread across the globe, all of which have rich histories and many stories to tell as they leave their marks on iconic sites, structures and landscapes, Saudi Arabia’s AlUla is one such tale with chapters spread across generations. The numerous sandstone hills and the variety of valleys make this city in Saudi Arabia a wondrous experience. This city has found its way into the global travel wish-list, thanks to the inscription of the iconic Hegra Archaeological Site (al-Hijr / Mada’in Salih) as a World Heritage property in UNESCO’s Memory of the World (MoW) Programme
Our expedition to this wondrous land in the Madina province was deeply enriching. With a rich history and so much to do, AlUla stands out as a land of endless activities and possibilities. After around 16 hours of air journey, layovers and connecting flights, we arrived in AlUla on a bright and sunny morning. Upon reaching the city, we were instantly mesmerised by its scenic beauty. With a medley of different rocks and hills against the backdrop of the sun, the drive from the airport to our stay for the next two days was picturesque and unforgettable. The buildings in the city were limited to two stories to preserve the natural scenic beauty of the landscape. As we passed through the city from one crossing to another, we witnessed people going about their daily lives. From people enjoying a drive with loud music to children practising soccer ahead of a match on a dedicated football pitch to patrons sitting in the pretty cafés in the Old Town area, AlUla was indeed thriving.
As part of this exciting journey in AlUla, our first accommodation was Cloud7 in the Al Azizyah locality. This residential complex is a low rise, with promising breathtaking views, wherein we could admire the scenic beauty of the short hills surrounding us. Replete with all necessities, Cloud7 is a perfect option for shortterm travellers. This property can also be a good option for avid backpackers on longer trips, as the affordable options and minimalist yet elegant décors of the rooms tick many boxes.
After a day’s rest, we were able to shake off our jetlag. The second day saw us venturing out to explore some of the prime locations within the city. The first top was the restored city of Dadan. Regarded as one of the most important discoveries made in AlUla, visiting Dadan was enriching. As we stood in front of the huge sandstone hills, we noticed various hollow spaces on the face of the walls. These were the tombs expertly carved into the hills by the ancient people of the Dadan and Lihyan kingdoms. Joining the list of well-preserved sites were the stairs leading up to the Dadan tombs. In addition to the nearby sites of Jabal Ikmah, Dadan also flourished immensely due to a flourishing trade enabled through visiting caravans coming in from all directions. But the most popular feature of the Dadan sites is its uniquely carved Lion Tombs. These tombs are believed to be of high-ranking officers and even royalty amongst the members of the civilisations. Amounting to almost 700 tombs carved into the hills, Dadan is a historical marvel for explorers.
Next up was our visit to Jabal Ikmah. This culturally rich site is another location of historical importance. As we marvelled at the hundreds of inscriptions on the mountains, we lear nt more about the Dadanites. Having found its way into the UNESCO Memory of the World Register, Jabal Ikmah is a representation of the daily life of said civilisation and the timeless stories of those in the region.
The site were multiple Rawis (guides/ storytellers/bearers of stories and history), who were stationed at each location. Our conversations with them enriched our visits to these locations further. From stories and histories of the lands to the process of restoration of these heritage monuments, the insightful Rawis proved to be a vital link added by the Royal Commission of AlUla (RCU), in their efforts to promote these locations.
For many explorers, a moment always arrives, when the location they are in feels almost surreal. For us, it was stepping onto the premises of the Hegra sites. With over a hundred tombs spread across the region, Hegra is truly a spectacle to admire. These tombs housed the buried bodies of Nabataean royalties. Upon the entrance of these tombs are stairs-like structures carved out of the sandstone rocks that housed these bodies. Additionally, these tombs also contain numerous inscriptions, with one at the entrance elucidating the identity of the person buried within. The tomb entrances were truly marvellous in their preservation and, given the withering nature of the sandstone, seemed to have stood the test of time. The authorities, to this day, have ensured to suggest visitors walk in designated areas to avoid loss of any potential discovery of cultural heritage in the form of inscriptions and others.
While you are at Hegra, be sure to stay back for the Hegra After Dark tour. An event that is part of the Ancient Kingdoms festival, it is a one-of-a-kind immersive experience that one should watch out for this coming year. With horse drawn carriages dropping us to the spot, the immersive experience included actors donning outfits worn by travellers who had graced these lands and lived out their lives here. Re-enacting a busy marketplace amidst the lit-up burial tombs of Hegra is enough for travellers to be transported to an evening into the lives of people centuries ago. With shops enacting the sale of incense, jewellery, fodder for animals and a three-piece band primarily playing flutes and drums, this was the perfect blend of theatrical presentation and history.
Another noteworthy location we visited was Wadi AlNaam. With high dunes, this area provides an opportunity for people to attempt riding dune buggies. An exhilarating experience in itself, history is also bountiful here with Wadi AlNaam offering a wide range of inscriptions that have been preserved well. Engraved by the wanderers of the regions, Wadi Alnaam’s landscapes are filled with huge sandstones that have been sculpted by nature’s process of erosion. These inscriptions stood out from all the others we had seen, as many of them were pictorial in presentation. Filled with depictions of ostriches, humans hunting, carpets and more, Wadi AlNaam furthers the AlUlA story.
Our stay at AlUla also introduced us to some brilliant culinary spots. Restaurants like Somewhere and Pink Camel did a brilliant job of striking an elegant balance between various palettes. Somewhere does a brilliant work of highlighting dishes made from bread, including traditional Mediterranean pita bread and Labneh. With global fusion varieties on the offering, Somewhere also shines with its bao varieties and its simple but delicious mocktails. Be sure to try out the Passionfruit Mojito here. Pink Camel was the next gastronomic stop for us and we were not disappointed. With immensely generous portions on all offerings, this boutique café excels in salads, soups and pasta varieties. We tried out their set menu and were not disappointed. Among the soups, the Cauliflower Soup with Pumpkin stood out due to its thick texture and a tinge of sweetness. An added essence of truffle motivated us to finish the huge portions that were served. Additionally, the Citrus Pasta was a highlight of the menu. With its sharper-than-usual flavour, this pasta was a change compared to our usual encounters with other kinds. For folks enthusiastic about fine dining options, Tama at Our Habitas AlUla and Maraya Social should definitely be on the radar. Located within the Ashar Valley, these properties are surrounded by majestic and breathtaking sandstone hills. Habitas was also our accommodation for the next couple of days. With rooms laid out in the form of a village, Habitas is incredibly unique. Sipping our morning coffees in the backyard that resemble a tent, we were bowled over by the sumptuous food on offer at Tama, the restaurant on the higher end of the sloped expanse. Since most of our meals at the location were breakfast, we can confidently say that a single dish from the menu is enough for one person, keeping them energetic for a full day of sightseeing and adventure sports.
Our last day in Saudi Arabia was spent at Tayma, located around two hundred and thirty kilometres away from AlUla. This oasis city was made home by Babylonian king Nabonidus, who took to the land as his own. Tayama houses the iconic Bir Haddaj well, that dates back to the early 6th century BC. Cultivation of certain crops continue with the water drainage channels created during that time. Our visit to Tayma also introduced us to yet another Ancient Kingdoms festival’s immersive re-enactment experience at the Qasr Ibn Rumman, a portion of which was initially built around the 18th century. The re-enactment within the palace, at the king’s court, included the telling of history by actors, while they also engaged in a discussion with the audience. Make sure you stay back for dinner at Mirzam, that offers a mix of contemporary and traditional Saudi Arabian meals, overlooking the Bir Haddaj well and is breathtaking at dusk.
Our visit to Saudi Arabia was nothing less than an opportunity to re-learn all that we seem to know about the culture of the country. A truly peaceful location, a week at AlUla felt like bliss. We bid AlUla and Tayma goodbye with a promise to return.
Rs. 2.5 to 3 lakhs (approx.) for a 4 to 5 day trip, including a stay in Our Habitas AlUla.
