All quiet in Clovelly

Charming historic houses cling to the wooded hillside, lining the steep cobbled street that snakes down the hill to the traditional fishing harbour on the coast. In the distance, the stunning seascape beckons: myriad shades of blue, green, and grey coalescing into a shadowy cerulean. Clovelly isn’t like any other part of Devon, a county in Southwest England.

The lovely fishing village, steeped in maritime atmosphere and history, was once owned by England’s first queen, Matilda of Flanders. Even today, the small village with a population of barely 500 people remains privately owned. William the Conqueror, King of England, originally owned the estate and gifted it to his wife. The Giffard family acquired it in 1242, and the Hamlyn family has managed the village since 1738.

The village appears to be a throwback to its seafaring past: the steep roads mean there are no cars, no traffic, no chain stores, no pollution, and no influx of tourists. Instead, the ancient village offers cobbled lanes, whitewashed cottages, flowers on windowsills, small boats bobbing in the 14th-century stone quay, and the sound, smells and sight of the Atlantic from almost every angle.

Even today, the buildings seem precariously perched on the 400-foot cliff, with a main cobbled street—known as ‘up-a-long’ or ‘down-a-long’—running through its heart. Winding lanes and little passageways aid in the descent. Since there’s no vehicular traffic, donkeys and sledges are used to ferry things up or down.

The fact that Clovelly has been in private ownership, has helped preserve its original atmosphere. The current owner of Clovelly, John Rous, inherited the village from his mother, a countess from the Hamlyn family, in 1983. With little income being generated from the estate, Rous decided to invest in tourism. “We built a visitor centre and began charging an entrance fee to Clovelly to ensure that the village remained self-financed,” Rous says. Today, as many as 1,50,000 travellers troop into Clovelly every year.

Most idyllic fishing villages in England have borne the brunt of tourism. But Clovelly has set itself apart by ensuring that its 80 cottages are sold only to people who want to live in the village. Prospective inhabitants are vetted after a rigorous application and interview process. Clovelly, which boasts two hotels, two chapels, woodlands, and about 2,000 acres of farmland, may be small but is big on things to do: take a long walk along the South West Coastal Path, explore Bideford Bay and the 13th century quay, drop by to meet the donkeys in the stables at the top of the village, picnic at Mount Pleasant, or browse the couple of quaint local shops. The quaint English village allows you to connect with your own self.