A haven for nature lovers, adventure enthusiasts and those looking for a calm getaway — sums up the beauty that is Coorg. Officially known as Kodagu, this picturesque district in south east Karnataka is often referred to as the ‘Scotland of India’ and rightly so. Known for its natural beauty, misty hills, coffee plantations and pleasant climate, this destination is part of almost everyone’s travel bucket list. We recently scratched off Coorg from our list, thanks to a weekend getaway at Evolve Back Coorg — a luxury resort nestled amid lush coffee and spice plantations. Formerly known as Orange County, the resort offers a blend of nature, heritage and luxury and is known for its eco-friendly practices and rustic charm. With this overview in mind, we were off to our weekend abode.
If you truly want to enjoy your trip to Coorg, travelling by road is hands down the best option. Our trip was during Dasara, so the Bengaluru-Mysuru expressway was jam-packed, with a lot of people heading to Mysuru to witness the Dasara celebrations. To avoid the traffic, we took a different route which was quite scenic. You just somehow know that you are about to reach Coorg, with the greenery increasing, plantations on both sides along with the temperature dropping a bit.
As we entered the property, which is spread across 300-acre of coffee and spice plantations in Siddapur, we were welcomed to breathtaking views of the Western Ghats, lush greenery and pristine surroundings. Following a quick and easy check-in, we hopped on to one of their electric buggies and headed to our stay for the weekend. The property features elegant villas designed to blend with the local Kodava architecture and our villa, the Heritage Pool Villa, was an architectural beauty. Inspired by the Kodava culture, it features earthy tones, tiled roofs and wooden accents. The interiors were a blend of traditional and modern amenities. One striking feature was an internal courtyard which we knew would look great in the monsoon. The villa also had a temperature-controlled private pool, a spacious, enclosed courtyard with a garden area and an outdoor rain shower — among many other amenities.
Following a quick nap, we headed to Granary, the resort’s multi-cuisine restaurant located at its heart. The ambience combines rustic charm with modern comforts, overlooking serene plantation views. We kept the lunch simple by ordering the Pandi Curry with steamed rice, a staple that we couldn’t think of missing out on. With the flavours on point, we finished off our lunch in no time. After such a hearty lunch, the only place we wanted to be in was our room. We took another nap till evening, one that was badly needed. At around 7 pm, we made our way to the amphitheatre for an evening of cultural performances. What was planned for us was a traditional Kodava dance. It featured the Kodava valaga, a traditional folk dance accompanied by rhythmic drumming and flute music. The dancers were dressed in traditional attire, narrating stories from local folklore, agriculture and warrior traditions. The performance brought us closer to Kodava culture and definitely closer to our dinner time.
For dinner, we chose to dine at Peppercorn, their lakeside grill restaurant. We began proceedings with the Spiced Chicken Kebabs. These were infused with Kodava-inspired spices and served with a tangy yoghurt dip. The Grilled Tiger Prawns, which were served next, were marinated with Coorg-inspired flavours and chargrilled for a smoky taste. For main course, we tried the Paneer Steak with a tomato-based gravy and steamed rice. We topped it off with the Coffee Bean Panna Cotta, which was quite fitting for the end of the meal. We walked back to our room instead of taking a buggy and on the way, with the peaceful environment we were surrounded by, we didn’t want the night to come to an end. But when your bed calls, you listen to it.
The next morning, we woke up to a drizzle. We decided to stay in the room and made coffee for ourselves. For breakfast, we made a fruit bowl with bananas and apples. By 11, we made our way to their coffee museum to take part in a Coffeeology Session. This was an immersive experience dedicated to exploring the world of coffee and celebrating the rich coffee heritage of Coorg. The session, headed by an expert, took us on a journey through the origins, cultivation and preparation of coffee. It educated us about the history of coffee in Coorg, how it’s grown, harvested and processed. We also got demonstrations of various brewing methods, including French press, pour-over and espresso, while engaging in a coffee cupping experience, where we tasted and evaluated different types of coffee.
By the time the session completed, it was time for lunch. With a slight drizzle still on, we quickly made our way to Plantain Leaf, their vegetarian restaurant, which serves regional and global delicacies. We decided to go with the vegetarian thali, a delightful and wholesome meal, offering a balanced selection of traditional dishes that showcased the flavours of Coorg and South India in general. We could barely walk after such a heavy meal but with such pleasant weather outside, who wants to sit inside? We explored the property on foot, coming across plants planted by celebrities like actor Prithiviraj Sukumaran, late actor Puneeth Rajkumar, Rajinikanth and so many others.
But the evening was about to get a lot better. We chose the Plantation Drive 4x4 experience, which was an immersive journey through the resort’s sprawling coffee and spice plantations. Our ride was a 4x4 off-road vehicle, which was ideal for navigating the rugged plantation terrain. We drove through lush coffee plantations, spice gardens and dense greenery and soaked in the beauty of Coorg. We were also given valuable insights into the cultivation of Arabica and Robusta coffee, as well as spices like pepper, cardamom and vanilla. We drove to a hilltop, where we witnessed perhaps the best scenery in our lives. Imagine the sun setting, endless greenery all around you with small towns in between, all visible from up top. As we saw the sun set, we sipped on a warm cup of shunti kaapi, a memory we will cherish for the rest of our lives.
As we made our way back to the property, we were right on time for the Storytelling Session. This is a delightful cultural experience that brings alive the rich folklore, traditions and history of Coorg. The story we were told was about River Kaveri, which is not just a vital water source but also deeply intertwined with the culture and identity of Coorg. The session also included stories about Talakaveri, the river’s source, nestled in the Brahmagiri Hills. It was time for dinner and we made our way back to Granary, where we tried Kadambuttu — soft rice dumplings, which we paired with Koli Curry. Delicious and succulent, this was a match made in heaven.
The walk to our villa after dinner felt longer than usual, with only a thought lingering on our minds — how difficult it would be to say goodbye to such a beautiful place — so tranquil, so serene, something city life can never provide. The following morning, after a cup of coffee, we bid adieu to Evolve Back Coorg, with a promise that we would definitely return, as and when the city life becomes overwhelming.
The resort is a five-hour drive from Bengaluru, 233 kms away. INR 35,000 onwards. At Karadigodu.
Email: alwin@newindianexpress.com
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