This Himalayan destination offers old charm paired with modern luxury

Rishikesh, nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas along the banks of the Ganges River, is a city with a vibrant blend of spirituality, adventure and natural beauty. Known as the ‘Yoga Capital of the World,’ it attracts seekers from around the globe, drawn to its ashrams, meditation centres and peaceful surroundings. The town’s iconic suspension bridges — Lakshman Jhula and Ram Jhula — offer stunning views of the river and surrounding temples. Beyond its spiritual attraction, Rishikesh is a hub for thrillseekers, offering activities like whitewater rafting, trekking and camping. Whether you seek inner peace or outdoor excitement, Rishikesh has something for everyone.

Amidst these serene landscapes and spiritual charm lies Kinwani House by Aalia Collection, a heritage retreat that beautifully complements the town’s peaceful spirit. Overlooking the sacred Ganges and nestled in the Himalayan foothills, this boutique property blends timeless elegance with modern comforts. Originally built in 1954 as the private residence of a member of the Tehri-Garhwal royal family, it combines classic art deco style with modern comforts. The two-storey estate has six large suites, each with its own bathroom, balcony and deck. The retreat also offers a conservatory, a heated swimming pool and a spa, making it the perfect place for relaxation and peace.

Following a late morning flight from Bengaluru, we reached Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun around lunch time. Kinwani House is situated around 23 kms from the airport, in Narendra Nagar. Our ride to the property was scenic and surreal and the atmosphere we were surrounded by had an aura of spirituality, which was worth experiencing. After about 45 minutes, we reached the property and following a seamless check-in process, we were escorted to our room — Rajkumar Suite — which boasted a luxurious king-size bed with a dressing room, an attached drawing room and a private balcony which offered stunning valley vistas. The suite had a true royal charm that would certainly make you feel as a rajkumar. Following a tiresome journey, the comfy bed was calling out to us for some much-needed rest but when the gods call, you listen. Quite literally, because we were approaching sunset and being in Rishikesh, one can’t miss the Ganga aarti. We quickly freshened up, had some much needed coffee and snacks and headed to Triveni Ghat. Being the most popular and the largest aarti in Rishikesh, it draws large crowds every evening. The aarti usually begins at around 6 pm, so if you are planning to attend one, make sure you reach by at least 5.30 pm, to get the best view and experience. We reached Triveni Ghat by 5.15 pm and were already surprised to see a large crowd gathering there. Now, you could choose to sit away from the aarti area or you could pay an amount and be seated at the front row; while also participating in the aarti. We chose to go with the latter and it was definitely worth it.

Priests in traditional attire performed the ritual with large brass lamps, chanting vedic hymns and mantras. The rhythmic sound of bells, the conch and devotional songs created a deeply immersive atmosphere, which every person should experience at least once in their lifetime. It was not just a visual spectacle but also a soulful experience and was a glimpse of India’s rich cultural traditions. Following this divine experience, we made our way back to the property, reaching there, just in time for dinner. But before that, we made our way to The Conservatory, where we relaxed for sometime, sipping on a G&T and munching on some small bites. The main dining room at the property featured a generous 12-seater table, ideal for communal meals and fostering a sense of togetherness among guests. We made ourselves comfortable and were treated to some delicious pahadi dishes like Aloo Ke Gutke (sautéed potatoes seasoned with regional spices and garnished with coriander), Gahat Ki Dal (a hearty lentil preparation made from horse gram), Mandua Ki Roti (flatbreads made from finger millet flour) and Jhangora Ki Kheer (a sweet pudding made from barnyard millet, cooked with milk and flavoured with cardamom). After such a hearty meal, only proper sleep was missing. Our comfy bed was still calling and this time, we accepted the invitation.

The following day, we were greeted with a serene and soul-soothing morning. Imagine the first light of dawn breaking over the Himalayas, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink and the city below gently basking in the glow. We just couldn’t have asked for a better view from our balcony. After a cup of coffee and snacks at The Conservatory, it was time for a much-needed adventure — The Kunjapuri Temple Trek. The highlight of the trek is reaching the Kunjapuri Devi Temple, perched at an elevation of 1,645 metres. This ancient temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and holds significant spiritual importance in the region and is one of the 52 shakti peethas in India. According to Hindu mythology, the temple marks the spot where the upper body part of Goddess Sati fell when Lord Shiva carried her burning body across the universe. After a walk of around an hour (which also included almost stepping on a snake), we reached the temple which offered breathtaking views of the Himalayas and on the other side, you can see Rishikesh, Haridwar and the Doon Valley.

By the time we finished our prayers at the temple, we were too hungry. Making our way down from the temple, we came across a small tea shop, where we ordered coffee and a plate of Maggi. Sipping on the hot beverage in that winter fog was magical. We then made our way back to the hotel, where breakfast was already ready. From paranthas to sought-after south-Indian fare like idlis and vadas, we were treated to some mouthwatering delicacies. Following a quick nap, it was pool time! This temperature-controlled pool, with a view of the city below, was just out of a dream. Sipping on chilled beer and relaxing in the pool was exactly what the doctor had ordered. One could spend hours and hours there with no care of the world outside. But as evening approached, the cold came in and how, forcing us to finally get out of the water.

For our last dinner at the property, we savoured more traditional dishes like Phaanu (lentil-based curry made with soaked and ground pulses like gahat), Chha Gosht (lamb cooked in a spicy yoghurt-based gravy, flavoured with cardamom and coriander), Babru (Himachali version of kachori, stuffed with black gram paste) and rounded it off with a scoop of chocolate ice cream.

It was past our bedtime but we decided to stay up for some more time to admire the city from our balcony. Picture this, you are sitting on a comfy chair in your balcony, the whole city is below you and the only thing you see is the shimmering lights far away and the occasional sound of a car passing by. With a cup of coffee in one hand and our legs resting at a height, we just hoped that time would stand still.

The next day, as we bid adieu to Kinwani House, we made a promise to ourselves that if we have a vacation in Rishikesh again, this property would definitely be right at the top of our list.

Direct flights are available from Bengaluru to Dehradun.

INR 23,400 onwards. At Narendra Nagar.

Email: alwin@newindianexpress.com

X: @al_ben_so