A hidden heritage stay near Jodhpur that redefines slow travel in Rajasthan

As we touched down at the Jodhpur airport on a warm, sun-drenched day, the heat gave us a rather enthusiastic welcome. It was our maiden trip to Rajasthan, and we were as excited as a student on the last day of school. Needless to say, the soaring mercury didn’t quite dampen our spirits. The indigo-painted airport, styled like a quaint little haveli, was a hint that we had finally reached the Blue City.

Jodhpur beyond the Blue City: Discover an offbeat heritage escape in Rajasthan

We hopped on to our car, and after an hour-long drive (40 km from the airport) through stretches of dry, sun-baked terrain that seemed to roll on endlessly, we arrived at Chandelao Garh, a family home, the ancestral residence of the Kumpawat Rathores, thoughtfully converted into a boutique hotel in the quaint village of Chandelao. The vision behind this transformation was that of Thakur Praduman Singh, who began reworking the property in 1995, with an Australian biker group among its first guests, their photograph still proudly adorning the wall.

At the entrance of Chandelao Garh were the pet dogs, Sheru and Pluto, looking every bit like they were on official welcoming duty. “They are very friendly,” we were told. So, prepare yourself for an extended petting session. We were greeted by Rajasthani men with their striking moustaches and equally distinctive attire. For anyone brought up on a steady stream of ’90s Bollywood films like Karan Arjun and Hum Saath Saath Hain, it felt like a scene lifted straight from memory, only now unfolding in real life. We settled in for a quick lunch, taking in the setting as Praduman Singh’s son, Veer Singh, and daughter-in-law, Yashodhara Chauhan, welcomed us with the kind of effortless warmth that made us feel instantly at ease.

After a quick lunch, our first stop for the day was Sunder Rang, located just outside the property, a space dedicated to empowering women, preserving craft, and helping create livelihoods with dignity. Yashodhara shared how young women from Chandelao village are employed there crafting beautiful artefacts, while younger girls receive free education, challenging the harsh reality that many families withdraw their daughters from school as they reach adolescence. Inside, we spotted a row of women bent over their tailoring machines, stitching with quiet precision, their concentration unwavering as the whirr of the machines filled the room.

We were then taken on a leisurely stroll through the unhurried village. As we wandered along the dusty lanes, we passed a villager hard at work breaking stones, a dog sprawled lazily at a temple entrance, and women immersed in their daily chores, seemingly unfazed by the searing heat. At nearly every turn, we were met with cheerful “How are you?” most enthusiastically from young boys, who seemed thoroughly accustomed to the passing stream of visitors. We were also shown a stretch of land that has been transformed into a small, thriving mini forest, planted with native trees. Yashodhara told us this is one of her pet projects, and it’s easy to see why; in an arid desert landscape, a patch of green feels nothing short of magical.

The walk under the blazing sun had worn us out, so we decided to slow things down and take a recce of the property. Surprisingly, inside Chandelao Garh, the heat felt noticeably gentler, thanks to the tree-lined garden that offered a welcome pocket of shade and calm.

As for the property, the original structure has been carefully preserved, and the charming garden adds to its character. But what really stands out is how personal each room feels. They’re filled with family photographs and curated pieces that quietly reflect Rajasthan’s heritage and the family’s story. It doesn’t feel like a typical hotel stay. Instead, it has that relaxed, lived-in vibe, like being invited into someone’s home, where every corner has a bit of history and character woven into it.

The property features 21 rooms, including the erstwhile ‘mardana’ men’s quarters and stables, now converted into comfortable stays. There is an underground dining area as well, which used to be an erstwhile granary, and it will soon be laid open for small gatherings. Despite the desert heat outside, the interiors stay naturally cool. In fact, it was so comfortable that we didn’t even feel the need to turn on the fans that night.

Our day ended with Veer Singh whipping up a memorable Jungli Maas, a rustic Rajasthani mutton curry made with minimal ingredients, including desi ghee, mathania red chillies, garlic, and salt. We settled into a laid-back dinner, with a menu that also featured Ker Sangri and a Gajar ka Halwa prepared by Yashodhara’s grandmother in the Haryanvi style, and one helping was simply not enough.

All the while, Sheru and Pluto were being called in for their own dinner, their names echoing through the air as they finally made their way over, adding a quiet, homely rhythm to the evening.

The next morning, we veered slightly off itinerary, to dive into Jodhpur’s food culture. Our day began early, with Veer Singh, who knows the city like the back of his hand, guiding us to Motu Jalebiwala, a family-run eatery that has been serving locals for over 50 years. We were gently told the jalebis tend to disappear by 8.30 am, so sleeping in simply wasn’t an option. We started with hot, syrupy jalebis, followed by Panchkutta Kachori, before moving on to Shahi Samosas and Mirchi Bada. And if you’re someone who likes your snacks with a generous hit of chutney, Jodhpur may keep you guessing, as condiments aren’t exactly the star of the show here. In between bites, we managed a quick visit to the bustling Ghanta Ghar and a nearby stepwell as well.

Our next stop was Mehrangarh Fort, rising dramatically above the city like a sentinel over the desert. Thanks to Yashodhara’s suggestion to use the audio guide, navigating its rich history felt effortless. The view from the top, with the Blue City spread out beneath in shades of indigo and dust, is every bit as striking as you’d expect. After a few hours wandering the fort, we had a rather unexpected moment when local musicians, upon learning we were from Chennai, played a snippet of “Why This Kolaveri Di” on their folk fiddle. We couldn’t have asked for a better fusion of desert and pop culture!

Lunch was at Shandar Sweet Home, an old eatery from the 1980s and easily one of the most happening spots in town. It was packed and buzzing when we reached and not exactly easy to snag a seat. If you’re around Jalori Gate and heading here, keep your eyes peeled; it’s the kind of place you can walk past without noticing. We made our way upstairs and let Veer take charge of the ordering.

What followed was a full-on feast, which included Gulab Jamun Ki Sabji, Rasmalai Sabji, Kabuli Pulao, roti, Dahi Bada, and a chilled Makhaniya Lassi to wash it all down. Post-lunch, we wandered through a warren of timeworn lanes of old Jodhpur, until we reached Mohanji Mithaiwala. There, we indulged in Rabri Laddoos, Mava Kachoris, and a few other sweet surprises.

We returned to Chandelao Garh just in time for the desert barbecue, though desert here is more accurately rocky and dusty terrain than rolling dunes. We set off in an open jeep to a hillock where a wood-fired barbecue awaited us. The spread included parathas, Chicken and Paneer Kebabs, Ker Sangri, and a glass of wine to round off the day. The return journey was just as memorable, with a camel cart ride back, gently swaying through the desert night, with a canopy of stars overhead.

A slow, unhurried morning followed, complete with a traditional Rajasthani champi before we made our way back to the airport, pausing, of course, for a final round of selfies with Sheru and Pluto before saying our goodbyes. For those with more time, the property also offers jeep safaris through the countryside, bird watching, or even a visit to Pipar Bazaar to round off the desert experience.

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