As a theatre artiste in Mumbai, Meghna Roy Choudhury realised food had become the most important conversation of all. Drawing on that experience and her family’s refugee history, she presents Kheyechish? — an important conversation in solo play form. Written, directed and performed by Meghna, the show features live cooking and explores hunger, migration, precarious artistic labour and inherited memory. As she brings it to Bengaluru, Meghna discusses its making, the politics of food today and what audiences can expect.
Tell us about how the play and its format initially came to be?
So, the play grew from long-standing questions that had been bothering me. I had been watching what was happening around me and it all came to a head one night when I broke down. When I moved to Mumbai and was working in a play, I watched my colleagues and how they would not eat, which I now understand as directing a play — the shame of saying that I was hungry. I was questioning what I knew: choosing this profession was a privileged choice, but does that mean this hunger is not valid? That was the whole question. Then I started researching the Bengal famine and how people would beg for fana, the starch water; and how aloo posto came into play because of the British forcing Indians to grow food crops. There was a huge communication gap between parents and us about our struggles in theatre and with this play, I wanted to close that gap. I wanted to create something for them, the parents who are at home and don’t know what their children are going through.
How were you able to channel Bertold Brecht’s observations and emotions in The Shopper, along with related literary works, into this unique format that includes the sensory act of making live aloo posto?
During his 125th birth anniversary, I came across Bertolt Brecht’s poem called The Shopper, where an old woman cannot afford groceries, but goes anyway so people notice her hunger. That was the triggering point of this whole play. I had to include aloo posto and fana bhaat because these are Bengal famine-born dishes. It is important that the audience needs to smell the food — the mustard oil tadka, kalo jeere, raw posto and govindobhog chaal — as the play goes on. I wanted people to feel that, look forward to eating together with the protagonist and realise that these famine-born dishes, born out of starvation, have now become so expensive.
Cooking on stage brings real smells, crackling sounds and physical labour alongside theatrical cues. How does live cooking reshape the relationship between actor, audience and the fourth wall?
With every show, the moment the pressure cooker whistles and the potatoes are done keeps changing. But it is still a full play, tightly blocked yet flexible enough to include the cooking. Phase two begins when the play ends and people start eating and talking — and that’s what I love about it. In Kolkata, we spoke with the audience for three to four hours; they simply shared their food stories.
Somewhere between each “Kheyechish?” enquiry by a parent, the character seems to have evolved or devolved. Where does the emotional heart of this play lie?
I think it keeps changing. In Delhi, it became about how someone like me, from a family that once couldn’t afford my education or even milk, can be everything in this country. During the Delhi shows, I heard students cry when I said, “ma, it’s not possible... the home that you and baba created, it’s a delusion right now; we can never own a home; there’s no place for us to live.” When hope is dying, what do you do? The mother answers, “I’ll GPay you some money, you buy aloo posto and fanna bhaat and you eat food; and some hope will come.” But she is from another generation, so it also highlights the disconnect between generations.
In today’s world, how do you think food translates into identity?
In today’s world, food definitely translates into identity. I live in Kandivali, Mumbai, where I was denied housing simply because my surname is Bengali. During Durga Puja, when people come together to eat, they are encouraged to switch to a vegetarian meal and not eat meat. It’s ridiculous. How can you generalise all the cultures of this country, where the culture and food changes every few kilometres? Food was political then, but now it’s even more political and undoubtedly translates into identity, because it is not only about caste and religion; it is also about class and the food you can afford. At every level, food segregates people. In Kheyechish? all these aspects are addressed in the play.
October 24, 5 pm and 7.30 pm onwards. At Alliance Française de Bangalore, Thimmaiah Road.