As the final weekend of Paris Fashion Week menswear approaches, Hermès celebrated a change on Saturday when Véronique Nichanian, who has directed the house's menswear division for 37 years, unveiled her final men's collection. She then stepped outside to acknowledge a standing ovation.
The iconic Paris stock exchange, the Palais Brongniart, served as the venue for the Fall-Winter 2026 exhibition.
A wider-than-usual mix of musicians, actresses, and designers was seated in the first row beside Hermès officials.
Axel Dumas, executive chairman of Hermès, was spotted with singer Usher prior to the performance. Attendees included designer Paul Smith, actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford, and rapper Travis Scott. Her trademark is an understatement.
Nichanian created the kind of subtle, material-driven wardrobe that has long characterised Hermès men's apparel on the runway. The models donned leather pants and silk turtlenecks in a subdued colour scheme of taupe, black, and navy. Shearling linings and leather patchwork components were used in the construction of overcoats, which leaned toward warmth and texture without ostentatious excess.
Archival elements were included in the lineup, and several looks were straight out of past seasons.
Among them were a mocha calfskin jumpsuit from 1991 and a blue leather suit with topstitched pinstripes that debuted in 2003. Orange and yellow jackets broke up the deeper tones, colour coming in deliberate bursts. A glossy khaki crocodile-skin suit was one of the most eye-catching items; it stood out from the more subdued combination of leather, silk, and fitted outerwear.
In October, Hermès declared that Grace Wales Bonner, a designer based in London, would take Nichanian's place. In January of next year, Wales Bonner, the creator of her own brand, will unveil her debut Hermès male line.
She will be the first Black woman to head a major fashion house, according to Hermès. As the brand's menswear enters a new phase, Hermès has announced that Nichanian will continue to supervise silk and men's accessories.
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