With sustainable and responsible fashion becoming a discerning factor in shaping up conscious sartorial choices, few labels can afford to ignore it. Many major ready-to-wear brands are trying to include more of it in their collections, and H&M is no exception. H&M Studio is the Swedish brand’s most directional, fashion-forward offering, and since its launch in 2013, it has been coming up with limited-edition collections developed by an in-house design team at the label’s Stockholm atelier. As it gears up to unveil its mini summer capsule on June 4, we have a hearty chat with Ann-Sofie Johansson, head of womenswear design at H&M on summer styles, and the label’s drive towards more sustainable, eco-friendly production going forward.
Tell us about the mini summer capsule?
With this capsule we wanted to create a range of throw-on-and-go holiday looks that can take you from the beach to drinks on the terrace to dinner al fresco. It comprises laid-back beachwear that focuses on regeneratively grown cotton and has two maxi dresses, two kaftans, and a coordinating top and skirt. Each piece is made from regenerative organic certified cotton (free of artificial pesticides or fertilisers and has no GMO). To capture the holiday mood, the capsule combines the spirit of wanderlust, while underscoring craft. The hero outfit is a pale sunset-hued strappy maxi dress with floral appliqué detailing creating a tactile yet delicate effect. Another relaxed silhouette is the black halter-neck maxi dress, with its flared skirt and spaghetti strap ties making a subtle yet dramatic statement. There are two kaftan styles too --- a short black-and-white printed style in a summery starfish pattern, and a longer tiered white sheer dress. There’s also a co-ordinating bralette and flared skirt, embroidered with abstract appliqué swirls in a sunset shade of apricot.
What brought you to fashion?
I think it was my mother. She was a seamstress and used to make all my dresses when I was little. She usually made the same dresses for me as hers. I was always standing on a chair and twirling for her to make the hemline even. Besides her, Barbie was the most fashionable thing I knew as a little girl. All those amazing outfits I used to put on the doll and they could be whatever, be it an airhostess, a doctor, or a lawyer.
How do you feel fashion has changed since you began your career in 1987?
When we started off, fashion was dictated from the runway in Paris. Today it’s much more about expressing yourself and all about inclusivity, and diversity. We have to incorporate local variations now. It’s also more fun today because everything is in fashion – there’s no in and out list any longer because it’s more about communicating with fashion today. It was elitist in approach before, but not any longer. It’s more playful but the dreaminess and aspiration around it are still there since it’s very much about emotions and creating memories. It will always be impactful in more ways than one.
What newness do you plan to bring in terms of design ?
The product has to be right and we invest a lot of hours in making them. They have to be well-designed and well-made and qualitatively great yet value-for-money. So, it’s constant thinking and improving and a work-in-progress. Also, it’s a challenge for us to take into consideration the climate of various countries and sizing. We are increasingly using sustainable and quality fabrics like tencel, organic cotton, and linen, besides recycled cottons and other recycled fabrics.
What’s trending this summer?
Summertime calls for a little bit of frivolity and energy which vibrant colours and airy materials like crochet and netting bring in. It’s all about hotpants, small tops, airy loose dresses with a glam touch brought in by chunky jewellery.
Streetwear and athleisure will stay on and the 70’s bohemian look is back, be it flat jeans or romantic flowy blouses with flounces and frills. Also, you can’t get enough of bling, be it the sequins, beadings or pearls, they go a very long way to elevate a look.
Peplum is back too…
I think peplum never really disappeared and is now back with a vengeance. Many women feel good in peplum – it’s feminine and very forgiving as a silhouette and it can be in tops, dresses and even skirts like a flouncy belt. I love fringes too, especially their movement that makes a garment very sensuous.
Summer wardrobe essentials?
Kaftan and big chunky necklace can take you from day-to-evening wear and shorts and shirts in the same fabric and print for men.
How do you incorporate sustainability?
It’s a very big subject but we have been working towards sustainability for the last 25 years – it’s a part of our business idea to offer fashion and quality at the best price. Everywhere that we can be more sustainable, right from the drawing board to the end of the line of production, we have different sustainable initiatives. From choosing the fabrics to how you produce it and transport it and how customers are using the products – everything is a part of that approach. We are trying to make it circular. There are lots of challenges but we strive to ensure that the things we create last for a very long time and are reused and remain in the circular system.
The mini capsule will be available on hm.com from June 4.